Cold Fusion Blog

Saturday and Sunday 4-5th February. It’s been hard for me to feel motivated after Spain. Training mid week after long days at work, limited climbing available outside, bad weather and small amounts of time have been severely grim. I had managed a couple of days at Dumbuck trying Devastation with my jummar but it was frustrating trying to link moves properly. With a day at Dumbuck and Malham planned I hoped to restore my motivation.

On Saturday I returned to Dumbuck with Lindsey who kindly offered to belay for the day. The forecast turned out to be spot on. Although everything was dry the wind was raw. I struggled to warm up on Tragically Hip and Twister which was made more difficult by a couple broken holds since my last visit. Holding a small amount of warmth a threw myself at Devastation. The first move felt grim until I refined the movement again. Third go seen me at the scoop. Pulling through to the crux I tried my three sequences again but couldn’t get any to work. I decided to stick with the low foot method and found I could hang the left heel and jump my right up before getting the undercut. My joy over finding a sequence was short lived when I found I’d been sitting on a tight rope. The links below and above felt better but frustratingly the crux foot swap still wouldn’t go. As the snow headed in we retreated back to the car.

On Sunday I headed down to Malham with Owen and Ruth. Arriving in the sun it almost felt too hot. Que cloud and more snow. As the snow fell it felt pretty peaceful like the closing of a huge white curtain. This didn’t distract from the action. I had planned on trying something slightly easier to get a bit more distance up a route for once. Sadly people had already staked out on New Dawn and Zoolook, so instead I got on the Maximum F7c+ again. Working up the start it felt just as hard as my last try nearly a decade ago. I managed to work out a short arse way to do the hard crux using the pocket, small right hand undercut and a press. After tones of practice on the top and a rest I went for it. Braving the cold I stripped to a T-shirt to save weight. It seemed to make a difference as I linked through the crux firmly minus some butt slippage on the undercut smears. I got a little back on the rest but continued quickly to the final moves. With something to spare i made the last clip but as my arms pumped I had to gurn out the final press. Reaching the final undercut I held my breath and closed my eyes not expecting to hold the barn door. I swung back in balance and with another move it was done. I let out a few whoops at the chain. It had been a great fight and it had come together perfectly. A hard 7c+ for shorties for sure. I had another couple of goes on Magnetic and worked a new foot sequence on the start. This seemed to work better and I finally got to the second bolt again after 8 years. The crux didn’t feel so good and I felt too stretched again. I’m still temped to try and move off the crimp but to date I’ve not got it to work. Progress till next time.

Hopefully there will be some progress on the way on Devastation. Its always good to feedback some mileage into the harder projects.

On my last trip to Spain I got tantalisingly close to completing my objective La Puta Rue F8b+. Hungry for success I booked another visit through late February into March with Dave Mac. The winter nights flew by, but sadly my motivation wasn’t up for the same rigorous training regime I endured through the autumn. On leaving I was aware my performance wasn’t at the same levels as the autumn being heavier and unfitter. Still I hoped I could make quick gains while out and a slightly longer trip would work to my advantage. This timeMichael also managed to make it out along with Rick and Andy, so we had a psyched team in the flat ready to tear up the Costa Durada. I was glad to arrive healthy after last years nightmare four day sickness. On this trip my objectives were to climb La Puta Rue F8b+, try another F8b+/c for future reference, onsight/flash some F7b/c’s and redpoint three F8a’s. Conservative enough goals for a two week trip.

Flashing Voladerum F7b+, Margalef.

February 26th – 28th. Our first destination was Margalef’s Sector Laboratori. After our own quick warm-ups we got stuck into a F7b+ called Voladerum. Dave wobbled up onsight unfamiliar with his new shoes and chalk bag (that he bought to replace his late arriving baggage). I went for a flash ascent afterwards. Taking some time to commit to the initial move off a crap two finger pocket I launched up through the jugs onto the tricky headwall. As elbows lifted I had to knuckle down on the final moves. Mike sailed up easily first redpoint.

I then got stuck back into my main objective La Puta Rue. On putting the clips up the top section the moves didn’t feel easy. The bottom section as usual felt ridiculously powerful. After a quick run through I had a couple of redpoints, both of which ended well below the crux. I put my bad performance down to maxing out my energy reserves earlier on the 7b+. Dave worked out the moves on another 8b+ to the right. After a short rest he nearly managed it first redpoint but painfully ripped off one of the holds.

We returned the next day with Rick and Andy to show them some of the routes around Raco de la Finestra in the neighbouring valley. After a few warm-ups we returned to Sector Laboratori. After failing on a 7a warm-up I decided to take a rest day. Mike tried a short 8a called Sarau Nocturn (that Dave had onsighted last year) and made all the moves bar the last to the LO that Dave commented “were jugs”. Dave had more luck on the 8b+ despite the hot sun. He held it together well through some minor wobbles to get it second redpoint.

A local close to sending Doble Lluna F8b.

After a rest day I returned with Mike to try La Puta Rue. The weather felt a lot cooler with the cloud blocking out the sun. Perfect for hard redpointing. After warming up properly I felt better and managed four redpoints up to the crux. I also worked out a better sequence through to the hand jam that had been annoying me. However, the foot jam was failing me. On the crucial clip third redpoint I could feel it slipping and was unable to adjust it and had to jump off. The heatwave of annoyance pulsing through me felt good so I decided to lower straight away for another go. Properly warmed up for once the moves felt fluid and easier. On the lip I tried to ignore the sliding felling from the foot jam. As I pulled out slack to clip it popped out and I flew off skimming the ground.

It was good to feel zoned on the route. I’m not sure if I needed the psyche up for the moves or to endure the pain of the sharp holds. The cold starts after belaying were hard going and often resulted in hotaches. The sharp pockets felt painful on my soft office skin which disparately needed thickening. I hoped I’d see some proper progress after a rest day.

Good late afternoon conditions, Margalef.

March 1st-2nd. On Saturday I was rewarded after my rest day with cool temperatures at Margalef, while the rest of the group rested after four days on. Overcast skies and a gentle breeze made conditions perfect for an attempt on Puta Rue. I managed to shift some minor morning aches by warming up with a brisk run, stretching and a link of the top section of the route. This time I managed to reach the crux on two redpoints, but was frustrated not to improve on my November high point. After a quick rest I threw myself between the holds to the lip, this time I managed to badly latch the crux hold. Knowing it was over I managed a token stab at the next hold to a least come away with my November high point. I started to doubt again that I could complete the route on this trip. Even after two sessions on and a rest day I still didn’t feel like my power endurance was improving on the route. The moves still felt hard, the holds sharp and the traffic from the near by road just as annoying. I longed to complete the route and move onto another crag. Done for the morning we took a drive round to the Monastery crags in the adjacent valley. After a steep walk in we reached the crag which had a fantastic aspect hanging right at the top of the valley. The wall had a good looking F7c and F8a that I really had to come back an try.

The afternoon heat wipes out the team.

On Sunday we returned to Margalef under clear skies. It was apparent from our warm-ups that it was going to be a very warm day, unsuitable for hard climbing without in built AC and leather skin.
Mike persevered and tried a F7c to no avail. Dave grumbled about conditions and delays over his main objective, a solo of the F8c. I opted for shade and head to a crag by the dam to try a route called Twist a Lola F8a we had scoped out a previous evening. Warming up on the moves it seemed pheasable enough with a bouldery crux at the start and an endurancy headwall above split by some jugs in the middle. The stiff lock to the chain looked like the redpoint crux which I managed to verify. Despite initially poor beta low down I managed to hang in there to reach the crux on two occasions. On my first redpoint I fumbled around with footholds. On tensioning through the crux I missed the hold, but recovered by catching a lower intermediate. Again I repeated this manoeuvre before finally latching it. Knackered I headed for the jugs hoping to get something back. Wobbling on the next crux was touch but I made it onto the line of good pockets across the headwall before getting spat off the last move pumped. The feat was repeated a second time, sadly with the same outcome.
To finish off I squeezed a bit more beta out off the last move and discovered I could lock for it using a small intermediate. If I had know! After ripping two flappers on the side of my fingers on the sharp crux pockets it would be a few days before I could try the route again. I resigned myself to more rest to dwell on those failed redpoints.

Starting up Twist a Lola F8a.

Tuesday 4th March. On Tuesday morning we awoke to much cooler weather brought in by a northerly airmass. It was worrying to watch the cars temperature gauge fall to 4 degrees as we ascended to Margalef. Our disgust earlier at the useless south facing heat of sector Laboratori was replaced by relief. By our arrival the sun’s work raised the morning temperature to 11 degrees, perfect for redpointing. However, the strong gusty wind made life hard by quickly stripping away any warm-up, kicking up giant clouds of dust and making the quick draws dance as you went to clip them. I decided to make three quick redpoints of Puta Rue to stay warm. Moving out across the cave the moves felt easier and the holds sticky in the cold air. The first and last ended frustratingly at the same move on the lip. On my second I latched the crux pocket badly, set up a new toe hook and firmly latched the next hold. However, with my right set up so badly there was no way of making the next move. I was really frustrated with my efforts. Well into week two of the trip I was still powering out instantly on the crux when I felt fairly fresh. It looked increasingly likely that I’d again fail to complete the route on my now third visit. Looking back at experience from previous trips the only way forward I could fore see was to take two days full rest, sacrificing a climbing day and the associated objectives. I hoped this would bring the improvement I’d been searching for.

In the afternoon taking advantage of the persisting freezing wind we headed for the sunny Sector Espadelles. Dave got straight to work on Los Vampros Hippes F8c. I was less inclined to try it myself after watching Dave decode its long complex sequences on lots of mono’s. It looked like Darwin Dixit could be the F8c of choice for me in these parts. After a good rest I went for the onsight of Suduku F7c a short overhanging pocketed wall that I’d eyed up last year. As I moved upwards locking through the complex grid of pockets forearms steadily gripped. Crossing through to a good pocket I nearly managed to knock off my glasses, leaving them hanging off one ear. After restoring vision and a shake out I continued working through the next section right, left then onto the easier ground to the top. I’d got quite pumped and had to work hard, but in all it was the fight I’d been looking for on the trip do far.

Trying to onsight a F7c+, not so close.

Later I tried my luck onsighting a F7c+ but got shut down on the midheight crux. I dogged out the rest of the route which although complicated had some good rests. It wasn’t to hard to imagine that fresh and with more stamina I could onsight to this level and harder in the future. Dave finished off the day doing the F8c first redpoint after two sessions dogging. It was unexpected given it was freezing after the sun went down and he had to battle hotaches and hard cruxes high on the route. It was a true measure of the man’s tenacity that made more than a few Spanish jaws drop that day.

Pocket cuts force a rest day and extreme taping.

Friday 7-8th March. After two days I hoped I’d gathered some extra strength. On Friday morning my warm-up didn’t go according to plan and I gripped out on the F7a. With tight forearms I had two redpoints on Puta Rue but couldn’t improve on my previous high point. As the afternoon heat increased I decided to rest. Later that evening I returned after the afternoon heat had subsided. Although I felt fresher I still couldn’t break the deadlock. Frustrated at my lack of real climbing I went back to dispatch the F7a and attempt an onsight of Tsunami F7b+. This didn’t go to plan and I found myself beasting away till dark with no redpoint to show for it after two more attempts.

I’d tried to reserve my final day away from Laboratori but again I ended up on Puta Rue to try my luck one final time. However, one try confirmed I was knackered and I dropped off the midway rest unable to continue. The torture of beating body and mind raw had become overpowering. Fingers limped between quickdraws to strip the route cut and bruised. We finished our trip up on the Monastery crags managing our final routes before heading home.

Sunset of our final day at Margalef.

I had thought that this trip would bring my objective to a fore gone conclusion but I have again be proven wrong. Fifteen redpoints over 7 days with 6 days rest spread in between did not bring success. A change of sequence and psyche levels on the route still couldn’t bring me any closer. My belief dwindles in the sacrifice required to complete high level routes when I could be happily ticking through routes of a slightly lower grade. It seems satisfaction from an ascent is only maximised in finding the right ratio of effort and time. I guess the coming year will test both.

Looking over the end of Loch Muick toward Broad Cairn.

Sunday 17th February. Since my psyche has been low for climbing and training at the moment it was a refreshing change to get back into the mountains with Lindsey to do some walking. Unsure about cloud cover expected out west we opted instead for east Deeside to climb Broad Cairn and Cairn Bannoch in the Lochnagar area. Our usual late start brought us to the car park at 10.30am under completely clear skies thanks to the February high pressure. The guide book description hinted at long day with a lot of distance to cover so we tried to keep up a pace flanking around the banks of Loch Muick and up towards Creag an Dubh Loch. In the spring sunshine the going was plesant, it felt more like late April than February.

The Creag an Dubh loch cliffs looking scary.	Lindsey tussling with the summit rocks of Cairn Bannoch.

We got a great view of the Creag an Dubh Loch cliffs which although mainly slabby still managed to look terrifying. Moving up to our first top I was glad to have brought the crampons as the remaining 200m to the top was steep hard snow. Now 3.30pm we raced towards the second peak of Broad Cairn stopping briefly for some snaps. After carrying heavy climbing boots through a million odd foot falls my knee started to feel really sore stepping down. Looking towards the end of Loch Muick some 10km away and 500m below us it literally ‘felt’ a long way away. With 90 minutes of light left and no head torches we made a mad dash Loch Muick. Hobbling along my knee wasn’t so bad on the flat but ached like hell on gradients under 5 degrees.

Broad Cairn victory.

As we started the steepest part of the descent we got a nasty surprise as the path disappeared under a steep section of icy snow. The 30m ice slide into the rocks below looked unthinkable. Luckily some frozen up footsteps and pole holes allowed the slope to be traversed airily. Lindsey did really well up to half way when her head decided to dish out the fear hormones and I was out of chocolate lure. The next 10 minutes was an interesting exercise in mental control for both of us, but we emerged victorious at the other side! The knee mashing decent continued in earnest as I flagged behind breathing heavily to suppress the pain.

Looking back over Loch Muick, home a long way off.

We managed to descend and find the track again before dark, but the 7 km walk out still remained. Luckily, the moon was out to light our retreat. My knee held up half the way back before getting sore again. Luckily Lindsey was an angel and carried my bag the rest of the way. The frustration of achy legs and feet hasn’t quite faded yet but we got back to the car for 7.30 feeling very thankful it was all over. After a hot pub meal all that was left was the 3hr drive home which sadly felt extremely hard, even with Mr Kiplings, 7up hiccups and a tube of Pringles. Never been so glad to fall into bed after a hot bath yet.

Hurtling towards my next visit to Spain I couldn’t quite hold my training plans together in the final week. Feeling knackered from work and shutdown from a touch of impingement syndrome in my right shoulder I had to accept the fact my body was telling me to rest. I hadn’t quite managed to achieve all my training goals but hopefully the gains made would collectively contribute to good performance.

The campsite ‘Chalets’ in Siurana.

Thursday 15th – Monday 19th. My trip didn’t start ideally when making my way out to Reus through Luton I began to feel sick and feverish. I suspected food poisoning from something I eaten for breakfast or dinner the night before. Feeling weak and shivery I tried hard to fight the urge to throw up. I had a strong temptation to turn around for home but pushed on to Reus, collected the hire car and struggled around the shopping centre before heading up to Siurana. The temperature on arrival was below freezing, not the warm Costa Durada air I’d been looking forward to. I sat in the hire car with the heating on full to keep warm, at this point my stomach finally gave in. Luckily, the next day I was set up with a sick bed in the campsite chalets and slept away most of the day. Struggling to stand after two days without food I tried hard to eat some bread. This turned out to be a bad idea as the enzymes in the bread lead to a serious case of shotgun bottom as my digestive system restarted. Pumped up harder than a rubber dolly I’d never been happier to spend a night at the refuge. On Saturday I fought the urge to pass out and managed a little climbing up to F7a+. On Sunday things slid down hill again and I fought dizzy spells through the morning at sector Campiqi-Pugi. These passed over long enough in the afternoon for me to succeed 1st RP on Eixuga-me-la i tornem-hi 7c+. Sunday night was rough, after a cold shower I got little sleep because of a sore chest and more trips to the bathroom. On Monday an early start was required to get around the less than ideal Siurana resurfacing roadworks which closed the road from 8am-6pm mid-week. I returned optimistically to Margalef to try La Puta Rue F8b+, with a poor nights sleep and a sore chest I couldn’t get very far and narrowly came away with repeating the moves. Disappointed I returned to the refuge only to get locked out the back when lighting my stove, requiring a rock climb in the dark to get back in again. As I settled down to sleep for the night another one of he guests threw up behind the sleeping room door. So ended the most physically and psychologically challenging starts to a trip in my life to date.

The line of Obrin Pass F8c on the right of sector Paret del Vent Santa Ana.

Tuesday 20th – Wednesday 21st. With heavy rain arriving to break the cold spell I rested before deciding to take myself off to investigate some of the other venues north of Lleida documented in the Salvatage Oest De Catalunya guide. I estimated them to be a 2hr journey from Suirana. Driving out past Vilanova de Prades and out towards Lleida the landscape became increasingly industrial, run down and dirty. I can see why Toni pulled a face when we mentioned it. My first stop was at Santa Ana to check out sector Escaleras al Cielo. This turned out to be a disappointment as the routes looked manufactured. One of the routes Stoke F8c that I noticed listed on Dave Graham’s scorecard turned out to be 6m pile of shite. Sessio de Rabia F8a looked alot better if somewhat artificial but seemed onsightable. The adjacent sector Paret del Vent looked amazing and I could clearly see Dani Andrada’s line Obrin Pass F8c on the right.

Cova Grande home of many futuristic lines, Santa Linya.

My next stop was Santa Linya to search for the Cova Grande, home to several of the worlds hardest routes in the F9a up bracket. I didn’t have much luck finding the correct road down to the cave (double right on entering the village I’m now told) but spotted some cars at the base of the hill so parked up and walked down. The cave didn’t disappoint being some 50m high and overhanging by 30m. There were a dozen or so people to entertain me including Chris Sharma now resident in Lleida. I later found a up to date topo online and it turned out everyone was trying things F7c or harder. It wasn’t then such as surprise as to why Chris was having hard time on his route as it was an F8c+! If your planning a visit bring plenty of strength, fitness and a long rope.

Sector Balco del Segre, lots of nice F7’s-8’s, Alos de Balaguer.

My final stop was Alos de Balaguer to check out sector Balco del Segre. The routes mainly in the F7c-F8c region all looked amazing being 15-20m climbing pocketed tufa’d rock. L’orde del Fenix F8a looked great and again onsightable, but maybe I’ll wait till the top is well chalked up as it looked like the crux. With the light fading I headed back to Siurana.

Climbers on sector Espadelles, Margalef.

Thursday 22nd - 25th November. I was disappointed to find out the rest of the gang were of to the Torello Film Festival during the last three days of my trip. Luckily I managed to arrange some climbing at Margalef with Keith, a friend of Emma’s who was out climbing in Siurana for the month. On Thursday we started the day a sector Raco de les Espadelles. After warming up on a 7a in the sun a F7c called Corporacio Antiestetica caught my eye for an onsight attempt. Looking from the ground all the holds looked fairly obvious with a powerful move at the start, middle and maybe at the top. I tied on and went for it. Powering off the starting two finger pocket I managed to stick the next hold to clip. Stupidly I shouted for slack only to look at the empty bolt forgetting to place the draw! Moving up to some better holds I got the next two in. Feeling the next crux pocket I was surprised to find it was slopey. Normally I would sit on the rope at this point but I persisted finding a slopey undercut. Deciding to use it quick I got my feet high, slapped for a good pocket high on the flake above me and luckily stuck it. Moving on I found a couple of good holds to rest on that I hadn’t seen from below. Looking above I spotted a couple more good pockets and I pulled through to the lower off for my first F7c onsight tick!

Locals tearing up a project at Margalef.

Later in the afternoon I returned to try La Puta Rue with a weight hanging over me from Mondays poor performance. I worked through the moves from the start and was surprised to find them much easier. I was psyched. My first redpoint felt good and I moved up to the crux quickly. Making the lip clip I felt good, however pulling my feet up for the crux I faded instantly. The next redpoint was more of a fight to the lip with the same result unfortunately. As the light faded I didn’t have a third go in me.

On Friday I tried to rest but ended up climbing a couple of routes at sector Raco del la Finestra. This was mainly down to temptation as the F6b+ up a flow stone corner looked so good. The F6c wasn’t such a good rest and was a bit too much of a fight for a rest day.

Church bells tolled in the morning of my final day. I was resolute to spend it on La Puta Rue regardless of the outcome. I felt my chances were small given my recent luck but I simply had to go the distance. If not today, then the next day, month or year, what ever it took to complete the journey. It was a cold morning at Margalef so I spent some time warming up running and trying the top section of the route. I managed to suss out an intermediate hold on the lip to help get my trailing hand clear of the rope before the throw. On redpoint the the moves felt powerful but fluid out towards the lip. I found myself at the lip with plenty of reserves, got the intermediate and snatched the next crimper. Pulling my feet up I found a new redpoint crux throwing for the crack and was off. Next redpoint I made the same high point, but only caught the crimper with three fingers. I rested some forty minutes before my final redpoint but was rapidly shutdown before the lip. With no more to give I was done. We finished the day back up at sector Espadelles. I had planned to try a F7c+ but couldn’t get to the first bolt. Instead I tried a short F7b+ called La Gomorra. This turned out to have some fun climbing swinging between positive pockets. The final traverse nearly spat me off when I couldn’t find any finger jugs. Struggling to match the clingon head slopper I thought I was off but held it long enough to find better holds above to the lower off for my first F7b+ onsight.

Last day on La Puta Rue, Margalef. (Keith)

I don’t feel to bad that I didn’t complete my main objective. I think doing so was improbable given two days rather than five after sickness. The route did feel a little harder than I remembered. I guess I’ll have to intensify the training before the next trip to complete the job. After seven months training for La Puta Rue it was humbling to get only a move higher. If it takes me seven years to climb F8c I think I’ll still find it worth while.

Its nice to be enjoying the luxury’s of home again but I’m starting to wonder if the cost is too high with so little hard climbing and good weather locally. I’m increasingly tempted towards a nomadic lifestyle spending the winter months living and climbing in Catalunya. There’s no doubt I’ll return to Spain in the next few months to complete projects, but in the meantime I need something closer to home to focus my motivation. Before I can continue with the intense training I’m going to have to concentrate on sorting my shoulder impingement. I’ve got myself some therma band and intend on doing some shoulder exercises to warm up each session. My roadmap to F8c of completing a few F8b+’s this year has met a dead end. I guess I’ll have to take the direct approach, I think its time for me to get back on Devastation.

Saturday 3rd - Sunday 4th November. Its been a difficult week. After long days at work dieting plans have left me tired and crabby, a less than idea training state. I’ve also been aware of a drop in my training performance. After three midweek finger board sessions my right shoulder had finally had enough and painfully cramped up on Thursday stopping play for the evening. I was becoming increasingly frustrated at my loss of performance, forgetting that more rest should probably be in order.

Malham Cove in late Autumn, North Yorkshire.

On Saturday I headed down to Malham again with Owen and Mike. I made the prerequisite 6am start to make the most of the available winter light. This weekend the weather had improved a little too much and instead of it being too cold and wet it was too hot and sweaty, easily 18 Deg on the cat walk. Sweating away under Magnetic having just put my shoes on conditions didn’t look good. Ignoring my instincts to bin it and wait for cooler day I struggled upward trying to get to the second bolt. Damp sweaty finger tips made the first section desperate and after 30 mins of trying my fingers were bruised, my feet hurt and I still hadn’t linked the F7c bottom section. With frustration boiling inside I bit back the urge to throw my rock shoes into the Beck again. I had been here in this situation so many times before nearly a decade ago. Had I learned nothing. The only way forward would be cool conditions. I also though that I new pair of shoes and a better foot sequence on the first crux would help. Resolute on the way forward I striped it and went off to try something harder.

Owen trying Bongo Fury F7b, Malham Cove, North Yorkshire.

I’d always been keen to do one of the great looking extensions through the bulge on the right of the catwalk. For me there was a choice of two lines. Power Ranger F8b+, done my Tony Mitchell climbing above Wasted Youth via a 13 move V9 sequence onto an easier headwall. And Transform F8c, by Malcolm Smith climbing above Rose Coronary via a 7 move V11 sequence onto an again easier headwall. I’d tried Power Ranger some eight years ago managing to link it in three and redpointing up to the crux. Returning some years later I found a hold had snapped and I was unable to find another workable way. I’d tried Transform a couple of times but was unable to do a couple of the hardest moves. On this route I was keen to make headway. Climbing Rose Coronary I got too pumped for comfort (I really must learn to use my feet) getting up to the bulge. Hanging out in space I watched as a nother climber got agonisingly close to redpointing Power Ranger. It was great to see someone so psyched to complete a route at close proximity and I only wished I was there myself that day.

Jordan Buys on the crux of Power Ranger F8b+, Malham Cove, North Yorkshire.

I got back to refamiliarising myself with the holds on Transform making massive adjustments to memory. The holds were much better and closer together than I had remembered. However, there was an big absence of footholds. I still seemed like there were two methods. Either to undercut the tufa feature with the left hand and make a long reach out for the poor sidepull crimp, or to use a poor pinch and high foot on the left to gain it dynamically. I didn’t make much progress before the light began to fade and it was time to go., but I’ll be back up there for sure.

On Sunday I meet up with John Watson and co at Aggazzis Rock, Edinburgh to show him some of my problems there for his new book. Working through my old problems they still didn’t feel easy. My main focus was to repeat my traverse Life Beneath the Darkness Fr 8a+. It took me a good 20 minutes to refresh the moves before going for it. My first try was a real fight to make it up to the final moves. Luckily my next goes felt more fluid, the moves flowing nicely together. I didn’t manage to complete the problem but the attempts gave me a good beasting. I’ll have to try and get back soon to repeat it and finish off some of my other hard projects there.

The weekend has given my a lot to think about. If I’m ever going to improve I’m going to have to get my training sorted. Recently it would seem my motivation for training has been my greatest enemy. I should really pay closer attention to my training performance and get a couple of days rest after a heavy session. This week I think I’ll concentrate on doing problems and PE circuits on my board, leaving the finger boarding for a finishing off later in the evening. On the finger board I might also increase the hang time to 12-14 sec to see if this provides a better strength gaining stimulus.

Diet plans in March of to a bad start with my Blue Ribbon sponge.

Two weeks down, two weeks to go before Spain. On the whole still very psyched to get a F8b+ done this trip and willing to make the sacrifices for it. Making some progress so far:

• Finger injury – Still taping and keeping off the crimps, should continue to get less achy as the weeks go on.
• Finger Boarding - Over the start of the past fortnight my performance got slightly worse despite frequent sessions. One evening getting annoyed I made an adjustment to my grip position pre-weighting my fingers then digging my skin and nails into the back board. This improved my hang time by 4-5 sec which I was very excited about. I’ve also been try to get more psyched before and during hang time which seems to be helping. I think the influencing factors between a good and a bad day are definitely rest and psyche levels, although the weight loss is definitely helping. Starting to dab a one handed lock for a second on the left hand, but the right one needs a bit more work. I can’t help feel that a longer hang time in the 12-14 sec range would be better for building strength than the recommended 6-8 sec range. I might next try and alternate sessions between heavier weight with less hang time and a lighter weight with greater hang time.
• Power endurance – It took longer than I thought to set a PE problem similar to La Puta Rue, being tired late at night and trying to fit it around the existing holds on the board. Finally I got something set that felt similar to the route. On the first session I kept falling off on exactly the same move as my March redpoints so it seemed spot on. On the second session it felt easier and I nearly did it. As a quick comparison I tried my F8b problem from the late summer that I managed just before getting very high on Full Tilt. Maybe it was tiredness or poor familiarity with the problem but it felt a little harder! This means I need to make the F8b+ much harder. I don’t have the time to adjust the problem so I’m going to try and make the down climb harder with high feet and no resting jug. Failing that I might go and find myself a weight belt. I also spent a lot of time setting another F8b+ problem similar to Mr Checki. On this one I couldn’t make the first move hard enough and couldn’t do the press and two finger pocket moves. I’m starting to worry that setting such specific problems takes time away from getting a simple beasting on crimps.
• Weight – Been counting the calories obsessively. By skipping lunch and the treats midweek got my calorie count down to around 1000-1500 kcal’s a day. Drinking lots of tea has kept the hunger away. Over the weekend I’ve been slacker (within reason) to help maintain motivation. Managed to lose a kilo in the first week, but locked disappointingly at 65 this week. I’ve been worried about how a low calorie intake is affecting my training and recovery. Feel quite wasted before training even after eating around 500 kcal 2 hours before training. The sugar spike has been a little dizzying. Worried that I’m eating too much too soon, so going to try and spread my intake over a 4 hour period prior to training. Going to have to trim the numbers back further to get to my 63 kilo target.
• Sleep – Getting more sleep on Friday (in preparation for Saturdays climbing) and on Sunday morning but still not getting enough sleep mid week to feel good enough to train very hard. Must stop getting distracted late at night and go to bed earlier!
• Early training – Still not training early enough. Feel tired and burned out after work, low calorie intake probably not helping. Hopefully calorie spreading on training days will help.

Saturday 27th October. I had planned on getting to the Anvil this weekend but with a poor forecast I started to look further afield. Yorkshire looked like it has seen some dry weather in recent weeks, thinking Malham would be dry I contacted Owen and was glad to hear he was keen to visit too.

The Malham catwalk, home to some of the most technical routes in the UK.

It had been nearly six years since my last regular visits to Malham. In 2001 I had a good spring season from Jan-April before the foot and mouth outbreak. Prior to that I managed Raindogs and made good progress at the starts of Overnight, Energy Vampire (both F8a+) and Magnetic Fields F8b. Having visited Malham a lot over the late 90’s was initially disgusted at its polish, hideous holds and technical sequences. I’d gotten over this by opting to visit in the cooler winter months where on a clear day the catwalk temperatures were perfect for redpointing.

Magnetic Fields F8b, Malham Cove, North Yorkshire.

Having tried Magnetic Fields over several years I was keen to try it again. Getting back on the route it was a push to warm up on the start. The heinous undercuts moving up to the crux proper had been dubbed F7c. Refreshing my old sequence I struggled to work out a foot sequence (a common problem here) and link it to the crux. I worked the crux of the large undercut my old way. Stretching for the pocket back muscles strained and twisted painfully. After a few goes I managed to rework the sequence and link it through. I was keen to redpoint later but the weather had other plans as condensation rapidly built up on the face (from the weather transition from cold to warm and moist) making climbing impossible. In all managed the route in three links, not quite the redpoint I had imagined but I suppose its motivation to train harder as always.

Saturday 20 October. I wasn’t sure when I get back on my Camel project again, luckily a text from Michael secured another weekend visit. Determined to finish the job I got stuck into my midweek power endurance and fitness training. Mid week I was shocked to find I’d gained a bit of excess weight over my average, surprising given all my long walks out to the Anvil. I had been trying to make changes to my diet since March, but the sugary lunchtime cakes have proved overpowering. Frustrated I finally went cold turkey opting instead for humble salad leaves and an apple during the working day.

Keen to gauge my performance I headed back to the Camel on Saturday with Michael. Driving north the weather was noticeably good for late autumn with warm sunshine breaking through the clouds. A good day to be out climbing. I was still worried that after midweek frost the temperature in the shade of the Camel would be too chilly for long routes. Warming up the temperature seemed comfortable after some initial hot aches. After placing the clips on the project and a bit of practice I got redpointing. On my first go I meant only down climb from a clip but ended up pushing onwards complete with thermals. Feeling anxious about overheating and the extra weight I lost concentration before the crux edge. Next go stripped down and psyched I pulled through the crux to the rest in a series of aggressive grunts. I felt apprehensive on the rest, would I still blow it, would I pump off the next section or would a pebble snap. I pushed on.

The first crux sequence of Ubuntu at the Camel (pics Mike Tweedley).

After making the next clip I flicked my arms quickly before firing on through the endurance crux with some energy to spare for once. I moved steadily to the lower off careful not to pump off or snap anything. It felt like a hell of a ride hanging onto the big cobbles and looking down the face from where I’d come. I clipped the lower off feeling uplifted, I’d put enough work in for it to mean a lot to me, but not too much for once that It’d become too stressful. After taking some photos we finished the day by doing some laps on Inverarnie Schwarzenegger F7a. Michael decided todo some alpine training with his duvet and rucksac on, I declined and got just as pumped in the falling darkness.

The second crux sequence of Ubuntu at the Camel (pics Mike Tweedley).

I’ve called the new line Ubuntu, after the South African ideal of which one meaning is “I am because you are”. Such an ideal seems to represent my own life lately. As inspiring lines capture my imagination they shape my life, taking me to different places, interacting with friends old and new and always motivating me to improve. I’ve graded the route F8a given the fair effort its took over the last month. I’ll leave it to others to seen if they can find an easier sequence and adjust the grade if necessary. Big thanks to Michael for coming along and taking the snaps, I’ll be working you hard on those crux’s when its my turn on photo duty. Time to step up a gear for the next project.

Previous high point on La Puta Rue F8b+ in March, Margalef, Spain.

I’ll be heading back to Spain in less than four weeks to try and complete the unfinished projects from my last visit. Top of my agenda is to complete an F8b+ at Margalef I tried called A La Puta Rue which crosses a cool roof. In March I spent 4 days on it and got as far as doing overlapping halves and getting to the crux a few times on redpoint. This time the brutal crux span to and from a two finger pocket might give me problems because of my finger injury. Still I’m hopeful. I might also have a go on the F8c next to it that Dave managed as it looks just my style, but I’m not sure about the mono crux. At Siurana I’d like to try Mr Checki F8b+ again, having only had a brief play on it last year. Finally I need to finish of the F8a+ on the Can Marges boulder that I fell from the final moves on the last day of the trip in March. To make all this happen I’m going to have to get trained up fast to the specifics of these routes. Lots of pocket strength and power endurance are the way forward.

Short Term Objectives

• Finger injury – Icing and massage.
• Shoulder problems – lots push ups to build up antagonistics.
• Fingers board – hang an edge for 5 sec, currently 12 kilos to go.
• Power endurance - create specific problems in the 30 move range similar to target F8b+ routes.
• Endurance – laps in the 30-60 move range to fight the chain fever.
• Target weight 63 kilo – 4 kilos to lose, ditch the cakes and puds.
• More sleep – 6hrs isn’t cutting it.
• Train earlier – 9pm-1am is getting taxing on above.

Training plan

• Mon/Wed: 30min runs.
• Tues/Thur: Finger boarding 45-60min: warm up pull ups, 50 push ups and stretching, strength hangs 7 sets 8-10 sec at limit, 4 min rest. Board work 2hrs. Problems: three harder problems on board. PE: 6-9 sets on PE problems Fr 8a/b+, 7 min rest. One armers: 3 sets. Endurance: 3 sets as many laps as possible on board.
• Sat/Sun: Climbing or more finger boarding and stamina.

Saturday 13th – Sunday 14th. After a hard week I was keen to get climbing this weekend. My finger was feeling sore after finishing the Aggazzis traverse on Sunday and Monday. Tuesday’s training didn’t happen as I felt rubbish and instead opted for an early night to sleep it off. I finally managed some training on Wednesday and Thursday.

Looking up towards the Camel.

On Saturday I got back up to the Camel with Mike to try my project. A two week gap, a late night and an early start weren’t to my advantage however. Never the less I got on the route since conditions were good being unseasonably mild for late October. As a warm up I managed to down climb from the start of the bulge saving a clip on redpoint. On the bulge I worked out a more efficient sequence that got me to the crux quickly and to the rest in less than 15 moves. The top section through the cobbles still felt tricky and blow-able, I managed to find a shake in the middle of it to prevent a flash pump. My first couple of redpoints went really well and I felt strong right up to the crux snatch for a small edge blocking access to the rest. I was convinced I could do it but on my next tries I felt knackered failing well below my high point. Trying a link through the crux to the top I flash pumped off the middle section as predicted. Lowering to the rest I continued to the top fighting a gripping pump right to the chain, only to then have to grab it because I was too pumped to lift the 20m of rope hanging below me. Pretty sure the route is F8a now, especially when my power faded. Michael also managed some good links on the route finding a different sequence at the top which he linked. My worries over the loose cobbles off route that I hadn’t check with the MOT hammer we’re confirmed when several broke loose. A helmet is advisable for belaying.

Pulling through the crux of Shadowlands F7c. (Cubby Images)

On Sunday I headed over to the Anvil again with Malcolm. Feeling quite tired I decided to try Mikes route Shadowlands F7c while the crack was still dry. Having watched so many people on it I was keen to try and flash it. After a warm up I headed up but got wrong handed and footed on the crux before my foot slipped. It took me a few goes to work out the proper sequence as it was harder than I expected. After working out the top and having a good rest I got it 1st RP, but it was still a fight to the LO. Having seen Emma try the route earlier this year I’m pretty sure she can do it too. After visiting with Dave the day before Malcolm was back to try the Anvil F9a project again. He managed a few good redpoints getting well into the crux and touching the crux hold. Afterwards I had a quick go on Body Blow myself but couldn’t do the crux move again after the hold snapped. Still I got my hand round the hold a couple of times by just flagging my foot rather than using the left foothold, so maybe that’s the way for me. On the top section I tried Alan/Malcolms method at reaching the edge using the ear and good foothold out right. It felt stretched but much more controled than any other method. Using the right off the slopey hold with a thumb divot and the slightly nearer part of the foothold I could reach more comfortably but still couldn’t quite hang it. Improved beta, but still not the progress I’m looking for. Malcolm finished the day by lapping the F8a/+ top section of Body Blow!

This week I’ll have to work hard on my power endurance and endurance, I need to get the project finished before it gets too chilly. After that’s done hopefully I’ll have some time left to try Body Blow properly. I’ve no illusions of how difficult this is and how long it might take me.