North West Sport Climbing
After a week in Spain the next decent climbing session outdoors in Scotland seemed a long way off, especially as it was snowing when I returned. However with a good forecast for the weekend I didn’t hesitate in replying when Iain Moody suggested we head up to the North West for some sport climbing. The plan was to visit Gruinard Bays fabled sport crag Am Fasgadh which I didn’t have time for during a trip last summer. So with a grid ref and a topo courtesy of local new route Mafioso Paul Tattersal we trudged off toward some promisingly steep hillside. It turned out that the first crag wasn’t Am Fasgadh but in fact another crag called Goat Crag which held a few good looking long routes. After a quick call we were back on course another 300m along the hill to find what we came for. On first impression Am Fasgadh was slightly shorter and less steep than I imagined (funny how imaginary crags do that). The rock looked amazing like a fusion of Dumbie and the tunnel wall with calcite coated streaks.
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Am Fasgadh (the shelter) basking in spring sunshine.
The routes at Am Fasgadh ranged from 7a-7c. What they lack up in height is made up for in powerful sustained moves. Lawrence’s route at 7c looked particularly appealing so I jumped straight on. However, I was quite shocked that it took all afternoon to workout and complete the moves. Iain didn’t seem to be fairing much better. A mixture of hot sun, bad technique and a big reach wasn’t helping me out. Finally, with the beta at hand I managed to puff my way to the chain 1st RP as the sun faded.
The next day (with the locals looking at us like we were crazy - as the Spanish do) we headed back to Am Fasgadh for another grilling. This time I decided to go for the right hand 7c which I was told was easier. Funny then that again I couldn’t do the crux section. After two dogging sessions I finally worked a way through the deviously technical middle section. With the light fading again I fired up the engines and blew my whistle, but sadly didn’t quite have the steam to fight my way past the final greasy crimp. However, my failure didn’t seem to matter and was by far made up for by the fine effort in wobbling up to that high point. I’ll definitely be back, but maybe on a cloudy, winder day! I dunno about the grading off these routes, that day they both felt 7c/+. It would be good to see what they feel like on a good day and what a wall technician on OS could make of them. Note to self sequence is: From jug, RH cross edge, LH side crimp. RF top square notch, LF small flake, RH 2F slope, RF jug, LH slope crack, RF top corner smear, LF small 70deg smear, RF edge, pop RH flat pinch, adjust to side, lift LF to small crack break, LH slap big round side pull, RF small edge in white patch, RH side edge, LH big side pull – fuck thats a technical 1.5M section!!!
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Goat Crag looking like a peak bank holiday with Stork starting up the 7c.
It was also great to see so many folks out. Sunday was busy with nearly a dozen folk out to enjoy the great routes, sun and banter. That day Paul Tat. Succeeded on a new 7b+ and I’ve later heard Stork managed the LH exit to the prowl at F7c+. I’ll have to get back up soon with some fitness to try those.