Sabotaged Training Plans
Saturday 29th March. With another good forecast the plan for Saturday was to take advantage of the extra light and sun to visit Dumbarton and the Anvil with Iain Moody and Ali Robb. I’d been waiting a long time to get back on Sabotage since Spain and other interruptions and was keen to see some progress. Warming up I was feeling fairly strong before my shoulder started to twang. This was probably from trying one arm pull ups on Thursday night, and I emphasis the try part as I could no longer do them! Things weren’t looking good but I decided to give the final Moves of Sabotage a try. To my raging dismay I could no longer do the final move! After ten or so tries I had to give up feeling very disappointed. By lunchtime it was time to move on to the Anvil.
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Ali Robb climbing Friendly Fire F7a+ at the Anvil, Argyll.
Arriving back at the Anvil I was happy to wait until evening to get back on my roof project. Meanwhile Iain and Ali tried Shadowlands Michael’s excellent looking F7b+ form last year. Sadly it was still a little damp in the crack for either to be psyched for the lead. As evening rolled in I bit the bullet and found myself under the crux on my Anvil project again. Late last year I had been denied even hanging the crux hold having been able to hang it in the spring. My initial swing at the diagonal sloping crimp felt good and I was surprised to hang it after a few goes. The same problem in lifting my feet for the crux dyno remained. However, a mix off revelation and pure determination seen me slap at the hold at least in a few more goes. With that I was happy to leave for the night feeling that I had made some progress from an entire winters training.
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The crux of my Anvil Project, like a much harder version off Slap Happy at Dumbie. (Ian Moody)
Now the spring season has arrived I question myself what can I do now to make the difference to climb these projects. Time ticks away each year and I find myself failing to succeed. I’ve now decided that core changes need to be made and some bad habits addressed. I’ve started finger boarding to kick my finger strength up, something I’ve never done before. I’ve also started watching my diet to lower my weight. I can no longer continue working in an office job all week feeding myself psychologically with unhealthy and unnecessary food.