Back on Track
Saturday 13th – Sunday 14th. After a hard week I was keen to get climbing this weekend. My finger was feeling sore after finishing the Aggazzis traverse on Sunday and Monday. Tuesday’s training didn’t happen as I felt rubbish and instead opted for an early night to sleep it off. I finally managed some training on Wednesday and Thursday.
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Looking up towards the Camel.
On Saturday I got back up to the Camel with Mike to try my project. A two week gap, a late night and an early start weren’t to my advantage however. Never the less I got on the route since conditions were good being unseasonably mild for late October. As a warm up I managed to down climb from the start of the bulge saving a clip on redpoint. On the bulge I worked out a more efficient sequence that got me to the crux quickly and to the rest in less than 15 moves. The top section through the cobbles still felt tricky and blow-able, I managed to find a shake in the middle of it to prevent a flash pump. My first couple of redpoints went really well and I felt strong right up to the crux snatch for a small edge blocking access to the rest. I was convinced I could do it but on my next tries I felt knackered failing well below my high point. Trying a link through the crux to the top I flash pumped off the middle section as predicted. Lowering to the rest I continued to the top fighting a gripping pump right to the chain, only to then have to grab it because I was too pumped to lift the 20m of rope hanging below me. Pretty sure the route is F8a now, especially when my power faded. Michael also managed some good links on the route finding a different sequence at the top which he linked. My worries over the loose cobbles off route that I hadn’t check with the MOT hammer we’re confirmed when several broke loose. A helmet is advisable for belaying.
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Pulling through the crux of Shadowlands F7c. (Cubby Images)
On Sunday I headed over to the Anvil again with Malcolm. Feeling quite tired I decided to try Mikes route Shadowlands F7c while the crack was still dry. Having watched so many people on it I was keen to try and flash it. After a warm up I headed up but got wrong handed and footed on the crux before my foot slipped. It took me a few goes to work out the proper sequence as it was harder than I expected. After working out the top and having a good rest I got it 1st RP, but it was still a fight to the LO. Having seen Emma try the route earlier this year I’m pretty sure she can do it too. After visiting with Dave the day before Malcolm was back to try the Anvil F9a project again. He managed a few good redpoints getting well into the crux and touching the crux hold. Afterwards I had a quick go on Body Blow myself but couldn’t do the crux move again after the hold snapped. Still I got my hand round the hold a couple of times by just flagging my foot rather than using the left foothold, so maybe that’s the way for me. On the top section I tried Alan/Malcolms method at reaching the edge using the ear and good foothold out right. It felt stretched but much more controled than any other method. Using the right off the slopey hold with a thumb divot and the slightly nearer part of the foothold I could reach more comfortably but still couldn’t quite hang it. Improved beta, but still not the progress I’m looking for. Malcolm finished the day by lapping the F8a/+ top section of Body Blow!
This week I’ll have to work hard on my power endurance and endurance, I need to get the project finished before it gets too chilly. After that’s done hopefully I’ll have some time left to try Body Blow properly. I’ve no illusions of how difficult this is and how long it might take me.