Ubuntu
Saturday 20 October. I wasn’t sure when I get back on my Camel project again, luckily a text from Michael secured another weekend visit. Determined to finish the job I got stuck into my midweek power endurance and fitness training. Mid week I was shocked to find I’d gained a bit of excess weight over my average, surprising given all my long walks out to the Anvil. I had been trying to make changes to my diet since March, but the sugary lunchtime cakes have proved overpowering. Frustrated I finally went cold turkey opting instead for humble salad leaves and an apple during the working day.
Keen to gauge my performance I headed back to the Camel on Saturday with Michael. Driving north the weather was noticeably good for late autumn with warm sunshine breaking through the clouds. A good day to be out climbing. I was still worried that after midweek frost the temperature in the shade of the Camel would be too chilly for long routes. Warming up the temperature seemed comfortable after some initial hot aches. After placing the clips on the project and a bit of practice I got redpointing. On my first go I meant only down climb from a clip but ended up pushing onwards complete with thermals. Feeling anxious about overheating and the extra weight I lost concentration before the crux edge. Next go stripped down and psyched I pulled through the crux to the rest in a series of aggressive grunts. I felt apprehensive on the rest, would I still blow it, would I pump off the next section or would a pebble snap. I pushed on.
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The first crux sequence of Ubuntu at the Camel (pics Mike Tweedley).
After making the next clip I flicked my arms quickly before firing on through the endurance crux with some energy to spare for once. I moved steadily to the lower off careful not to pump off or snap anything. It felt like a hell of a ride hanging onto the big cobbles and looking down the face from where I’d come. I clipped the lower off feeling uplifted, I’d put enough work in for it to mean a lot to me, but not too much for once that It’d become too stressful. After taking some photos we finished the day by doing some laps on Inverarnie Schwarzenegger F7a. Michael decided todo some alpine training with his duvet and rucksac on, I declined and got just as pumped in the falling darkness.
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The second crux sequence of Ubuntu at the Camel (pics Mike Tweedley).
I’ve called the new line Ubuntu, after the South African ideal of which one meaning is “I am because you are”. Such an ideal seems to represent my own life lately. As inspiring lines capture my imagination they shape my life, taking me to different places, interacting with friends old and new and always motivating me to improve. I’ve graded the route F8a given the fair effort its took over the last month. I’ll leave it to others to seen if they can find an easier sequence and adjust the grade if necessary. Big thanks to Michael for coming along and taking the snaps, I’ll be working you hard on those crux’s when its my turn on photo duty. Time to step up a gear for the next project.