Cold Fusion Blog

Diet plans in March of to a bad start with my Blue Ribbon sponge.

Two weeks down, two weeks to go before Spain. On the whole still very psyched to get a F8b+ done this trip and willing to make the sacrifices for it. Making some progress so far:

• Finger injury – Still taping and keeping off the crimps, should continue to get less achy as the weeks go on.
• Finger Boarding - Over the start of the past fortnight my performance got slightly worse despite frequent sessions. One evening getting annoyed I made an adjustment to my grip position pre-weighting my fingers then digging my skin and nails into the back board. This improved my hang time by 4-5 sec which I was very excited about. I’ve also been try to get more psyched before and during hang time which seems to be helping. I think the influencing factors between a good and a bad day are definitely rest and psyche levels, although the weight loss is definitely helping. Starting to dab a one handed lock for a second on the left hand, but the right one needs a bit more work. I can’t help feel that a longer hang time in the 12-14 sec range would be better for building strength than the recommended 6-8 sec range. I might next try and alternate sessions between heavier weight with less hang time and a lighter weight with greater hang time.
• Power endurance – It took longer than I thought to set a PE problem similar to La Puta Rue, being tired late at night and trying to fit it around the existing holds on the board. Finally I got something set that felt similar to the route. On the first session I kept falling off on exactly the same move as my March redpoints so it seemed spot on. On the second session it felt easier and I nearly did it. As a quick comparison I tried my F8b problem from the late summer that I managed just before getting very high on Full Tilt. Maybe it was tiredness or poor familiarity with the problem but it felt a little harder! This means I need to make the F8b+ much harder. I don’t have the time to adjust the problem so I’m going to try and make the down climb harder with high feet and no resting jug. Failing that I might go and find myself a weight belt. I also spent a lot of time setting another F8b+ problem similar to Mr Checki. On this one I couldn’t make the first move hard enough and couldn’t do the press and two finger pocket moves. I’m starting to worry that setting such specific problems takes time away from getting a simple beasting on crimps.
• Weight – Been counting the calories obsessively. By skipping lunch and the treats midweek got my calorie count down to around 1000-1500 kcal’s a day. Drinking lots of tea has kept the hunger away. Over the weekend I’ve been slacker (within reason) to help maintain motivation. Managed to lose a kilo in the first week, but locked disappointingly at 65 this week. I’ve been worried about how a low calorie intake is affecting my training and recovery. Feel quite wasted before training even after eating around 500 kcal 2 hours before training. The sugar spike has been a little dizzying. Worried that I’m eating too much too soon, so going to try and spread my intake over a 4 hour period prior to training. Going to have to trim the numbers back further to get to my 63 kilo target.
• Sleep – Getting more sleep on Friday (in preparation for Saturdays climbing) and on Sunday morning but still not getting enough sleep mid week to feel good enough to train very hard. Must stop getting distracted late at night and go to bed earlier!
• Early training – Still not training early enough. Feel tired and burned out after work, low calorie intake probably not helping. Hopefully calorie spreading on training days will help.

This entry was posted on Thursday, November 1st, 2007 at 8:49 pm and is filed under Training, Diet. You can follow any responses to this entry through the RSS 2.0 feed. You can skip to the end and leave a response. Pinging is currently not allowed.