Nov 08
22
Spain Autumn 08
|
Margalef valley.
It was a busy send off leaving for Spain again probably worse than any other. I’d been foolish to let work tire and stress me out to the extent of not training or climbing in a month. Arriving back in Spain for three weeks climbing my initial goals were to equip and climb a new line, redpoint Puta Rue and onsight 7c+. I was aware that given so little training just one of these goals might have to do.
Sun 26th – Mon 27th.
On our first few days we eased back into the limestone routes at the Siurana Valley crags. I got stuck back into a short 8a+ on the Primevera boulder. Meanwhile Mike got ticking and Dave quickly ticked off an Kalea Borroka F8b+. Without any training the route on the boulder felt hard and took several tries to work between the bolts. After doing the down climb I threw myself at the crux and surprisingly pulled through 2nd RP to the last bolt, only to get wrong handed and fall. With bruised skin I resigned myself to waiting for another try. The next day we returned and I go stuck into the 7c+ next to Migranya . After a quick warm up I went for the OS. The first few moves felt really powerful with bad feet. I managed to make it up to the crux before getting confused on just how to tackle the hanging corner. After a few tires I worked it out but got derailed on the final moves that proved a real sting in the tail. Fed up I stripped it for the day. To finish I went for the flash of Bistep de Bicepts F7b+. This went according to plan, the slab didn’t turn out to be too bad to work out. Meanwhile Dave ticked of Migranya F8b 1st RP and OS Caro de mementie F8a+, not a bad afternoon!
|
Weekend circus at Laboratori, honk, honk.
Tues 28th.
Weather looked worse today so decided to go and bolt the roof I’d seen at sector Espadelles round at Margalef. Was pleased to find it still wasn’t bolted, surprising given the renewed development (Mike even spotted a line bolted just to the left!). Abseiling down I had the usual worries if it was too loose/soft or even possible. The rain stayed off just long enough for me to get the first bolt in under the roof. The rest went in ok with the usual scary loose bits, bad drill holes and hollow rock but in the whole it looked brilliant. From the start a wee boulder problem on pockets (Br 6b) leads to a slab and a ledge at 7m. Bolts can be clipped before launching out diagonally across the steepening roof out to the last good hole 10m. This is divided into sections of flat three finger pockets and awkward twisty crossthroughs. The middle section could be tricky. Probably F7c for this bit. From the hole is a hard boulder problem reaching out for an undercut, two small pockets and a throw for a flat edge, before pulling onto the headwall. Hard to say how hard this is, maybe Br 6c/7a. Thinking route might be F8b at this point, without having tried the moves or done the links who can say hopefully I can do it quickly. If not I’m sure it’ll get done soon. I’m at ease with the open project ownership in Spain, kinda takes the pressure off anyway.
Thur 30th – Sat 1st
After a rest day I got back on Puta Rue again for the first go of the trip. After a warm-up RP of Tsunami F7b+ (a route I’d missed the OS of last year) I worked through the moves again. The moves still felt hard and sharp. With memory refreshed since my last try 8 months ago I had two redpoints, I was happy to make it to the lip four moves below my previous high point. I’d intended to rest the next day but ended up trying a F7b called Hostia at Siurana. The OS of this didn’t go too well and I ended up dogging up off route (which I later found was a F8a finish), all a bit too hard for F7b! The next day we were back at Margalef. This time I slapped the intermediate sidepull on Puta Rue on two redpoints (1 move below my highpoint) but wasn’t really in control that much. Later in the evening I tried the Espadelles roof project I bolted earlier in the week. I managed to work out the first third, breaking in the holds as I went. Jury still out on the rest until I’m back.
|
Pancake breakfast thanks to Dave Mac.
Monday 3rd – Wednesday 5th.
Week two of trip already and getting stuck into Puta Rue properly, which I found translates as dirty whore. On Monday I avoided warm up routes to save time instead running for a bit, doing pull-ups and trying the top of the route before redpointing. Despite the short warm-up the first redpoint went well and I got the crimp well felling strong only for my foot to slip. On the next two RPs the same thing happened. Realising the toe hook beta wasn’t working I compared methods with and without, it seemed without worked better. Later we headed up to sector Espadelles and I tried the roof project working out more moves. Realising the top was too hard for me to link (F8c?) I had a revelation of putting a lower-off at the end of the F7c climbing and breaking the route into two. This way I could complete the route to come away with something for my hard work.
On Wednesday I played the whole tape loop again, slapping at the pocket on Puta Rue (my highpoint from last trip) on the 3rd of three RPs. Back up at Espadelles I led the roof out to half way getting very pumped. I managed to work out the middle roof section involving a double toe hook before the good rest. It was still feeling hard to move out across the last of the good(-ish) holds to a planned lower off. Out of light I didn’t have time for a proper redpoint with the full beta, or have time to try the final moves. With everyone else ticking their projects I felt increasingly frustraighted having to wait until mines were finished before moving on. In nearly two weeks I’d only climbed 3 routes well below my limit. I guess this is just part of the sacrifice of pushing a personal best.
Friday 7th.
Day 5 on Puta Rue no closer to doing it and have actually got worse! On two out of three RPs I caught the sidepull badly but couldn’t lift my foot. I also failed to make the link from the rest twice. Have to face the truth that I’m not fit enough for the route explaining why I’m powering out. This needs to be addressed before another try, with a week left and maybe three sessions time is running out again. Back up at Espadelles I abseiled down the roof project to check if the left exit was any easier. Sadly no decent holds to be had, right exit crux at Br7a still stands to make a F8c route. Tried to OS a F7c+ but didn’t get passed first bolt. Dogged up rest of route which turned out to be excellent. After a few tries at the start I got passed the first bolt and onto the wall proper. Bad fitness was bitting badly and I started to pump off the third, fourth, fifth bolts before a crux spat me off. Oh well, suspicions confirmed, I’m not fit enough for F7c climbing at the moment let alone F8b+.
Sunday 9th Nov.
Fell from the last move of Puta Rue today. It was good to finally cross a psychological barrier on the route, bad not to finish it requiring yet more time investment. From the start of the day vibes felt good, didn’t expect to go on the route but ended up trying it from encouragement of others. Also had a crazy pumpkin at the bottom to warn off redpoint demons. It seemed to work first redpoint when I pulled through my previous highpoint to the last clip before pumping off. Next redpoint I really went for it with confidence and made it to the last move. It doesn’t matter what I did wrong, simply put, I didn’t finish it. It was too hot on the next go.
|
About to start the roof on Knuckleduster F8b.
Tuesday 11th.
I was back again today to finish Puta Rue. From the start of the day the vibe felt wrong despite the cool weather and quite atmosphere. A 3hr walk the day before also seemed to go beyond the call of active rest and towards exhaustion. After four redpoints I had still failed to stab the crux pocket. I was felling the pressure from my previous high point and the shortening time before departure. It is apearring to that a siege on hard project becomes more a mental game than a physical one. An equation that becomes increasingly unbalanced with time. Frustraighted by the situation in general it was nice to finish the day with a 7b+ (RP’d) and 7a+ OS.
|
Mike, Dave, Alicia, (emma holding cam), Dave on rest day.
Thursday 13th – Saturday 15th.
Hoped today would be the day, had shoes resoled by man in Cornudella who made an A+ job. After four goes fell from chain twice totally powered out and couldn’t move, why…… In a way reassuring that its hard and I hadn’t blown it last time after all. It was down to the last day again. On the Friday stripped the roof at Espadelles (Knuckleduster later done by Dave Mac at F8b). On Saturday circus soon kicked off redpointing with vans and spectators. A kid was wearing a full flamenco dress running around. Had 2 RP before sun came round then had idea to come back much later. After a restful afternoon, some coffees and sugar returned an hour before dark. Conditions were great at Laboratori now in the shade. However Spanish entourage were still there. Turns out people with kids don’t go home early here. Had another 2 RP before show was over and they all left disappointed. Just couldn’t get pasted the pocket stab move even though I was sure new sequence on final moves would work. I was getting desperate. Mike suggested we put the shine the car light in the cave for one final go. I though what the hell this just might make the difference right? With a headtorch and some music, brain made a good job at adjusting and I at least made it to the crimp move. Trip five drawn to a close and still no tick!
Disappointing not to reach any of the goals I set myself. Good to spend time with friends. Its the journey thats important rather than the destination. Thanks to all for the support!
|
Four heads are better than one.
