After a bit of finger boarding headed to Cambusbarron with Niall on Wednesday night. Niall went for Both Ends Burning E5 6b. I had planned to try and onsight this at some point but since the rope was up I thought what the hell. The climbing was brilliant involving a lot of smeary crack lurching. I managed it clean on second but think I’ll need a bit of top rope practice as the gear is quite blind to place. Next I tried Anabolic Steroids on top rope. Unfortunately the base of the crack was fairly wet. I had a few goes but couldn’t link it through. To finish Niall did Purr Blind Doomster E5 6a. As my only E5 onsight I was keen to see how it felt 11 years on. It felt fine but the arete was harder than I remember. Well into summer I better get into the stamina routes fast to better this effort.

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Posted in Traditional by dave No Comments Yet