Cold Fusion Blog

On my last trip to Spain I got tantalisingly close to completing my objective La Puta Rue F8b+. Hungry for success I booked another visit through late February into March with Dave Mac. The winter nights flew by, but sadly my motivation wasn’t up for the same rigorous training regime I endured through the autumn. On leaving I was aware my performance wasn’t at the same levels as the autumn being heavier and unfitter. Still I hoped I could make quick gains while out and a slightly longer trip would work to my advantage. This timeMichael also managed to make it out along with Rick and Andy, so we had a psyched team in the flat ready to tear up the Costa Durada. I was glad to arrive healthy after last years nightmare four day sickness. On this trip my objectives were to climb La Puta Rue F8b+, try another F8b+/c for future reference, onsight/flash some F7b/c’s and redpoint three F8a’s. Conservative enough goals for a two week trip.

Flashing Voladerum F7b+, Margalef.

February 26th – 28th. Our first destination was Margalef’s Sector Laboratori. After our own quick warm-ups we got stuck into a F7b+ called Voladerum. Dave wobbled up onsight unfamiliar with his new shoes and chalk bag (that he bought to replace his late arriving baggage). I went for a flash ascent afterwards. Taking some time to commit to the initial move off a crap two finger pocket I launched up through the jugs onto the tricky headwall. As elbows lifted I had to knuckle down on the final moves. Mike sailed up easily first redpoint.

I then got stuck back into my main objective La Puta Rue. On putting the clips up the top section the moves didn’t feel easy. The bottom section as usual felt ridiculously powerful. After a quick run through I had a couple of redpoints, both of which ended well below the crux. I put my bad performance down to maxing out my energy reserves earlier on the 7b+. Dave worked out the moves on another 8b+ to the right. After a short rest he nearly managed it first redpoint but painfully ripped off one of the holds.

We returned the next day with Rick and Andy to show them some of the routes around Raco de la Finestra in the neighbouring valley. After a few warm-ups we returned to Sector Laboratori. After failing on a 7a warm-up I decided to take a rest day. Mike tried a short 8a called Sarau Nocturn (that Dave had onsighted last year) and made all the moves bar the last to the LO that Dave commented “were jugs”. Dave had more luck on the 8b+ despite the hot sun. He held it together well through some minor wobbles to get it second redpoint.

A local close to sending Doble Lluna F8b.

After a rest day I returned with Mike to try La Puta Rue. The weather felt a lot cooler with the cloud blocking out the sun. Perfect for hard redpointing. After warming up properly I felt better and managed four redpoints up to the crux. I also worked out a better sequence through to the hand jam that had been annoying me. However, the foot jam was failing me. On the crucial clip third redpoint I could feel it slipping and was unable to adjust it and had to jump off. The heatwave of annoyance pulsing through me felt good so I decided to lower straight away for another go. Properly warmed up for once the moves felt fluid and easier. On the lip I tried to ignore the sliding felling from the foot jam. As I pulled out slack to clip it popped out and I flew off skimming the ground.

It was good to feel zoned on the route. I’m not sure if I needed the psyche up for the moves or to endure the pain of the sharp holds. The cold starts after belaying were hard going and often resulted in hotaches. The sharp pockets felt painful on my soft office skin which disparately needed thickening. I hoped I’d see some proper progress after a rest day.

Good late afternoon conditions, Margalef.

March 1st-2nd. On Saturday I was rewarded after my rest day with cool temperatures at Margalef, while the rest of the group rested after four days on. Overcast skies and a gentle breeze made conditions perfect for an attempt on Puta Rue. I managed to shift some minor morning aches by warming up with a brisk run, stretching and a link of the top section of the route. This time I managed to reach the crux on two redpoints, but was frustrated not to improve on my November high point. After a quick rest I threw myself between the holds to the lip, this time I managed to badly latch the crux hold. Knowing it was over I managed a token stab at the next hold to a least come away with my November high point. I started to doubt again that I could complete the route on this trip. Even after two sessions on and a rest day I still didn’t feel like my power endurance was improving on the route. The moves still felt hard, the holds sharp and the traffic from the near by road just as annoying. I longed to complete the route and move onto another crag. Done for the morning we took a drive round to the Monastery crags in the adjacent valley. After a steep walk in we reached the crag which had a fantastic aspect hanging right at the top of the valley. The wall had a good looking F7c and F8a that I really had to come back an try.

The afternoon heat wipes out the team.

On Sunday we returned to Margalef under clear skies. It was apparent from our warm-ups that it was going to be a very warm day, unsuitable for hard climbing without in built AC and leather skin.
Mike persevered and tried a F7c to no avail. Dave grumbled about conditions and delays over his main objective, a solo of the F8c. I opted for shade and head to a crag by the dam to try a route called Twist a Lola F8a we had scoped out a previous evening. Warming up on the moves it seemed pheasable enough with a bouldery crux at the start and an endurancy headwall above split by some jugs in the middle. The stiff lock to the chain looked like the redpoint crux which I managed to verify. Despite initially poor beta low down I managed to hang in there to reach the crux on two occasions. On my first redpoint I fumbled around with footholds. On tensioning through the crux I missed the hold, but recovered by catching a lower intermediate. Again I repeated this manoeuvre before finally latching it. Knackered I headed for the jugs hoping to get something back. Wobbling on the next crux was touch but I made it onto the line of good pockets across the headwall before getting spat off the last move pumped. The feat was repeated a second time, sadly with the same outcome.
To finish off I squeezed a bit more beta out off the last move and discovered I could lock for it using a small intermediate. If I had know! After ripping two flappers on the side of my fingers on the sharp crux pockets it would be a few days before I could try the route again. I resigned myself to more rest to dwell on those failed redpoints.

Starting up Twist a Lola F8a.

Tuesday 4th March. On Tuesday morning we awoke to much cooler weather brought in by a northerly airmass. It was worrying to watch the cars temperature gauge fall to 4 degrees as we ascended to Margalef. Our disgust earlier at the useless south facing heat of sector Laboratori was replaced by relief. By our arrival the sun’s work raised the morning temperature to 11 degrees, perfect for redpointing. However, the strong gusty wind made life hard by quickly stripping away any warm-up, kicking up giant clouds of dust and making the quick draws dance as you went to clip them. I decided to make three quick redpoints of Puta Rue to stay warm. Moving out across the cave the moves felt easier and the holds sticky in the cold air. The first and last ended frustratingly at the same move on the lip. On my second I latched the crux pocket badly, set up a new toe hook and firmly latched the next hold. However, with my right set up so badly there was no way of making the next move. I was really frustrated with my efforts. Well into week two of the trip I was still powering out instantly on the crux when I felt fairly fresh. It looked increasingly likely that I’d again fail to complete the route on my now third visit. Looking back at experience from previous trips the only way forward I could fore see was to take two days full rest, sacrificing a climbing day and the associated objectives. I hoped this would bring the improvement I’d been searching for.

In the afternoon taking advantage of the persisting freezing wind we headed for the sunny Sector Espadelles. Dave got straight to work on Los Vampros Hippes F8c. I was less inclined to try it myself after watching Dave decode its long complex sequences on lots of mono’s. It looked like Darwin Dixit could be the F8c of choice for me in these parts. After a good rest I went for the onsight of Suduku F7c a short overhanging pocketed wall that I’d eyed up last year. As I moved upwards locking through the complex grid of pockets forearms steadily gripped. Crossing through to a good pocket I nearly managed to knock off my glasses, leaving them hanging off one ear. After restoring vision and a shake out I continued working through the next section right, left then onto the easier ground to the top. I’d got quite pumped and had to work hard, but in all it was the fight I’d been looking for on the trip do far.

Trying to onsight a F7c+, not so close.

Later I tried my luck onsighting a F7c+ but got shut down on the midheight crux. I dogged out the rest of the route which although complicated had some good rests. It wasn’t to hard to imagine that fresh and with more stamina I could onsight to this level and harder in the future. Dave finished off the day doing the F8c first redpoint after two sessions dogging. It was unexpected given it was freezing after the sun went down and he had to battle hotaches and hard cruxes high on the route. It was a true measure of the man’s tenacity that made more than a few Spanish jaws drop that day.

Pocket cuts force a rest day and extreme taping.

Friday 7-8th March. After two days I hoped I’d gathered some extra strength. On Friday morning my warm-up didn’t go according to plan and I gripped out on the F7a. With tight forearms I had two redpoints on Puta Rue but couldn’t improve on my previous high point. As the afternoon heat increased I decided to rest. Later that evening I returned after the afternoon heat had subsided. Although I felt fresher I still couldn’t break the deadlock. Frustrated at my lack of real climbing I went back to dispatch the F7a and attempt an onsight of Tsunami F7b+. This didn’t go to plan and I found myself beasting away till dark with no redpoint to show for it after two more attempts.

I’d tried to reserve my final day away from Laboratori but again I ended up on Puta Rue to try my luck one final time. However, one try confirmed I was knackered and I dropped off the midway rest unable to continue. The torture of beating body and mind raw had become overpowering. Fingers limped between quickdraws to strip the route cut and bruised. We finished our trip up on the Monastery crags managing our final routes before heading home.

Sunset of our final day at Margalef.

I had thought that this trip would bring my objective to a fore gone conclusion but I have again be proven wrong. Fifteen redpoints over 7 days with 6 days rest spread in between did not bring success. A change of sequence and psyche levels on the route still couldn’t bring me any closer. My belief dwindles in the sacrifice required to complete high level routes when I could be happily ticking through routes of a slightly lower grade. It seems satisfaction from an ascent is only maximised in finding the right ratio of effort and time. I guess the coming year will test both.

Hurtling towards my next visit to Spain I couldn’t quite hold my training plans together in the final week. Feeling knackered from work and shutdown from a touch of impingement syndrome in my right shoulder I had to accept the fact my body was telling me to rest. I hadn’t quite managed to achieve all my training goals but hopefully the gains made would collectively contribute to good performance.

The campsite ‘Chalets’ in Siurana.

Thursday 15th – Monday 19th. My trip didn’t start ideally when making my way out to Reus through Luton I began to feel sick and feverish. I suspected food poisoning from something I eaten for breakfast or dinner the night before. Feeling weak and shivery I tried hard to fight the urge to throw up. I had a strong temptation to turn around for home but pushed on to Reus, collected the hire car and struggled around the shopping centre before heading up to Siurana. The temperature on arrival was below freezing, not the warm Costa Durada air I’d been looking forward to. I sat in the hire car with the heating on full to keep warm, at this point my stomach finally gave in. Luckily, the next day I was set up with a sick bed in the campsite chalets and slept away most of the day. Struggling to stand after two days without food I tried hard to eat some bread. This turned out to be a bad idea as the enzymes in the bread lead to a serious case of shotgun bottom as my digestive system restarted. Pumped up harder than a rubber dolly I’d never been happier to spend a night at the refuge. On Saturday I fought the urge to pass out and managed a little climbing up to F7a+. On Sunday things slid down hill again and I fought dizzy spells through the morning at sector Campiqi-Pugi. These passed over long enough in the afternoon for me to succeed 1st RP on Eixuga-me-la i tornem-hi 7c+. Sunday night was rough, after a cold shower I got little sleep because of a sore chest and more trips to the bathroom. On Monday an early start was required to get around the less than ideal Siurana resurfacing roadworks which closed the road from 8am-6pm mid-week. I returned optimistically to Margalef to try La Puta Rue F8b+, with a poor nights sleep and a sore chest I couldn’t get very far and narrowly came away with repeating the moves. Disappointed I returned to the refuge only to get locked out the back when lighting my stove, requiring a rock climb in the dark to get back in again. As I settled down to sleep for the night another one of he guests threw up behind the sleeping room door. So ended the most physically and psychologically challenging starts to a trip in my life to date.

The line of Obrin Pass F8c on the right of sector Paret del Vent Santa Ana.

Tuesday 20th – Wednesday 21st. With heavy rain arriving to break the cold spell I rested before deciding to take myself off to investigate some of the other venues north of Lleida documented in the Salvatage Oest De Catalunya guide. I estimated them to be a 2hr journey from Suirana. Driving out past Vilanova de Prades and out towards Lleida the landscape became increasingly industrial, run down and dirty. I can see why Toni pulled a face when we mentioned it. My first stop was at Santa Ana to check out sector Escaleras al Cielo. This turned out to be a disappointment as the routes looked manufactured. One of the routes Stoke F8c that I noticed listed on Dave Graham’s scorecard turned out to be 6m pile of shite. Sessio de Rabia F8a looked alot better if somewhat artificial but seemed onsightable. The adjacent sector Paret del Vent looked amazing and I could clearly see Dani Andrada’s line Obrin Pass F8c on the right.

Cova Grande home of many futuristic lines, Santa Linya.

My next stop was Santa Linya to search for the Cova Grande, home to several of the worlds hardest routes in the F9a up bracket. I didn’t have much luck finding the correct road down to the cave (double right on entering the village I’m now told) but spotted some cars at the base of the hill so parked up and walked down. The cave didn’t disappoint being some 50m high and overhanging by 30m. There were a dozen or so people to entertain me including Chris Sharma now resident in Lleida. I later found a up to date topo online and it turned out everyone was trying things F7c or harder. It wasn’t then such as surprise as to why Chris was having hard time on his route as it was an F8c+! If your planning a visit bring plenty of strength, fitness and a long rope.

Sector Balco del Segre, lots of nice F7’s-8’s, Alos de Balaguer.

My final stop was Alos de Balaguer to check out sector Balco del Segre. The routes mainly in the F7c-F8c region all looked amazing being 15-20m climbing pocketed tufa’d rock. L’orde del Fenix F8a looked great and again onsightable, but maybe I’ll wait till the top is well chalked up as it looked like the crux. With the light fading I headed back to Siurana.

Climbers on sector Espadelles, Margalef.

Thursday 22nd - 25th November. I was disappointed to find out the rest of the gang were of to the Torello Film Festival during the last three days of my trip. Luckily I managed to arrange some climbing at Margalef with Keith, a friend of Emma’s who was out climbing in Siurana for the month. On Thursday we started the day a sector Raco de les Espadelles. After warming up on a 7a in the sun a F7c called Corporacio Antiestetica caught my eye for an onsight attempt. Looking from the ground all the holds looked fairly obvious with a powerful move at the start, middle and maybe at the top. I tied on and went for it. Powering off the starting two finger pocket I managed to stick the next hold to clip. Stupidly I shouted for slack only to look at the empty bolt forgetting to place the draw! Moving up to some better holds I got the next two in. Feeling the next crux pocket I was surprised to find it was slopey. Normally I would sit on the rope at this point but I persisted finding a slopey undercut. Deciding to use it quick I got my feet high, slapped for a good pocket high on the flake above me and luckily stuck it. Moving on I found a couple of good holds to rest on that I hadn’t seen from below. Looking above I spotted a couple more good pockets and I pulled through to the lower off for my first F7c onsight tick!

Locals tearing up a project at Margalef.

Later in the afternoon I returned to try La Puta Rue with a weight hanging over me from Mondays poor performance. I worked through the moves from the start and was surprised to find them much easier. I was psyched. My first redpoint felt good and I moved up to the crux quickly. Making the lip clip I felt good, however pulling my feet up for the crux I faded instantly. The next redpoint was more of a fight to the lip with the same result unfortunately. As the light faded I didn’t have a third go in me.

On Friday I tried to rest but ended up climbing a couple of routes at sector Raco del la Finestra. This was mainly down to temptation as the F6b+ up a flow stone corner looked so good. The F6c wasn’t such a good rest and was a bit too much of a fight for a rest day.

Church bells tolled in the morning of my final day. I was resolute to spend it on La Puta Rue regardless of the outcome. I felt my chances were small given my recent luck but I simply had to go the distance. If not today, then the next day, month or year, what ever it took to complete the journey. It was a cold morning at Margalef so I spent some time warming up running and trying the top section of the route. I managed to suss out an intermediate hold on the lip to help get my trailing hand clear of the rope before the throw. On redpoint the the moves felt powerful but fluid out towards the lip. I found myself at the lip with plenty of reserves, got the intermediate and snatched the next crimper. Pulling my feet up I found a new redpoint crux throwing for the crack and was off. Next redpoint I made the same high point, but only caught the crimper with three fingers. I rested some forty minutes before my final redpoint but was rapidly shutdown before the lip. With no more to give I was done. We finished the day back up at sector Espadelles. I had planned to try a F7c+ but couldn’t get to the first bolt. Instead I tried a short F7b+ called La Gomorra. This turned out to have some fun climbing swinging between positive pockets. The final traverse nearly spat me off when I couldn’t find any finger jugs. Struggling to match the clingon head slopper I thought I was off but held it long enough to find better holds above to the lower off for my first F7b+ onsight.

Last day on La Puta Rue, Margalef. (Keith)

I don’t feel to bad that I didn’t complete my main objective. I think doing so was improbable given two days rather than five after sickness. The route did feel a little harder than I remembered. I guess I’ll have to intensify the training before the next trip to complete the job. After seven months training for La Puta Rue it was humbling to get only a move higher. If it takes me seven years to climb F8c I think I’ll still find it worth while.

Its nice to be enjoying the luxury’s of home again but I’m starting to wonder if the cost is too high with so little hard climbing and good weather locally. I’m increasingly tempted towards a nomadic lifestyle spending the winter months living and climbing in Catalunya. There’s no doubt I’ll return to Spain in the next few months to complete projects, but in the meantime I need something closer to home to focus my motivation. Before I can continue with the intense training I’m going to have to concentrate on sorting my shoulder impingement. I’ve got myself some therma band and intend on doing some shoulder exercises to warm up each session. My roadmap to F8c of completing a few F8b+’s this year has met a dead end. I guess I’ll have to take the direct approach, I think its time for me to get back on Devastation.

Previous high point on La Puta Rue F8b+ in March, Margalef, Spain.

I’ll be heading back to Spain in less than four weeks to try and complete the unfinished projects from my last visit. Top of my agenda is to complete an F8b+ at Margalef I tried called A La Puta Rue which crosses a cool roof. In March I spent 4 days on it and got as far as doing overlapping halves and getting to the crux a few times on redpoint. This time the brutal crux span to and from a two finger pocket might give me problems because of my finger injury. Still I’m hopeful. I might also have a go on the F8c next to it that Dave managed as it looks just my style, but I’m not sure about the mono crux. At Siurana I’d like to try Mr Checki F8b+ again, having only had a brief play on it last year. Finally I need to finish of the F8a+ on the Can Marges boulder that I fell from the final moves on the last day of the trip in March. To make all this happen I’m going to have to get trained up fast to the specifics of these routes. Lots of pocket strength and power endurance are the way forward.

Short Term Objectives

• Finger injury – Icing and massage.
• Shoulder problems – lots push ups to build up antagonistics.
• Fingers board – hang an edge for 5 sec, currently 12 kilos to go.
• Power endurance - create specific problems in the 30 move range similar to target F8b+ routes.
• Endurance – laps in the 30-60 move range to fight the chain fever.
• Target weight 63 kilo – 4 kilos to lose, ditch the cakes and puds.
• More sleep – 6hrs isn’t cutting it.
• Train earlier – 9pm-1am is getting taxing on above.

Training plan

• Mon/Wed: 30min runs.
• Tues/Thur: Finger boarding 45-60min: warm up pull ups, 50 push ups and stretching, strength hangs 7 sets 8-10 sec at limit, 4 min rest. Board work 2hrs. Problems: three harder problems on board. PE: 6-9 sets on PE problems Fr 8a/b+, 7 min rest. One armers: 3 sets. Endurance: 3 sets as many laps as possible on board.
• Sat/Sun: Climbing or more finger boarding and stamina.

After a very hectic couple of months working hard and moving house I have been feeling very stressed out and run down. Good form training and on Sabotage has again slipped from my fingers. I was therefore glad to get back to Catalonia for a climbing holiday but understood that my ambitions would not be met. Without much of a plan I headed back to Siurana with Dave Macleod hoping for some inspiration.

Climber Tackling the crack of El Logurin on the middle right of Campigi Pugi.

On the first day back on Campigi Pugi I had play on El Membre F8c (a route with a particularly powerful crux) hoping it would suit me. My fears of not training enough seemed to be confirmed as I struggled to do the moves. Both of us decided we were a bit Siurana’d out so decided to check out the Margalef valleys a 40min drive away at the other side of the Monsant range. Mr Tweedley’s recommendation was a good one and we found plenty of hard routes to try. On are arrival to Margalef we headed straight to the Laboratori Cave. This didn’t disappoint and held several steep well chalked routes. After a scan at a topo we were happy to find out they were all F8b+/c, so jumped right on. I decided to try a F8b+ called A la Puta Rue, the left hand solution to the cave. Dave tried Darwin Dixit F8c. My initial impression was however poor and I binned it. Again I felt weak and got sore skin, a common problem at the start of a foreign trip.

The steepest section of sector Laboratori, Margalef contains loads of steep roadside F7-F8’s.

The next day we explored the southern valley and were quite impressed. The mid crag above the road looked superb and had a range of F7c-8a’s all tackling well pocketed steep (and importantly solid) limestone conglomerate. Knowing my own stamina weaknesses I decided to try a shorter F7c+ (15m). This I managed 3rd RP after another rest day fighting a chain pump on the final moves. Later that day we returned to the Laboratori where Dave managed the F8c first RP (that day) and even chalked up off the crux mono!!! He then went on to OS his first F8a, before casually finishing the day by dispensing the F8b+ first RP.

Dogging A La Puta Rue F8b+, Laboratori, Margalef. (Pic Dave Macleod Col)

After getting Daves beta for the F8b+ I decided to come back for another go. Surprisingly I managed all the moves with out too much fuss which goes to show the difference a bit of beta makes. By the end of the week I could do it in overlapping halves and even had a few RP’s but sadly time ran out and it was time to leave again. I also wasn’t convinced on Daves soft grading recommendation. On the last day at Siurana I tried the F8a+ on the boulder under sector Espero Primevera. This I found suited me very well with a nippy little crux reaching for a 2 finger press. After loads of RP I finally pulled through the crux but the bat wings popped out on the top wall and I couldn’t finish it. After I finished my minor tantrum I gave Dave a quick belay before catching the fight home.
The trip has again opened my eyes to how much my climbing improves with more stimulus. I’m now going to try and train three times a week and get out more at weekends! I now understand just how much work its going to take to complete my own projects. I just hope that my lifestyle is stable enough now that I can maintain these training sessions.

I was aware on returning to Siurana with Dave MacLeod that the focus of this trip would be different from the last and would focus on the tricky game of hard redpointing. Arriving in the valley we joined an inspiring community of the worlds best sport climbers with similar plans. The gossip at the bar was that Yuji Hirayama, Chris Sharma, Dave Graham and Dani Andrada were here to try amongst other things the La Ramba Extension F9a+. It turned out that we were not the only Scot’s in the valley when we bumped into Blair Fyffe and Murdo Jamieson who were also out for some winter sun. My initial plan was to climb Anabolica F8a early on in the trip and concentrate of harder things, though it would turn out that a number of factors would conspire against that simple plan. Dave’s plan was to try and redpoint L-odi Social F8c+. We would then also be joined later in the week by Dave Brown and Paul Diffley from Hotaches who would be filming material for a new project.

Toni Arbones attempting Kalea Borroka F8b+ on Sector El Pati.

On our first couple of days at Cam Pigipugi we were shocked by how small a window for good conditions we had in between blazing sun out of the shade and early winter darkness. It took me this time to tick Isadora donde estas F7b. On the lead in the sun I felt quite pumped making me wonder if things would go according to plan. On Monday evening after the weekend crowds had passed I got back on Anabolica. The moves up to my previous half way point felt easy enough and I quickly worked out a sequence for the top section. Before dark I had a quick redpoint but failed trying to hit the big pocket. On lowering off I was sure I could return the next day to tick the route.

It turned out that things didn’t pan out that simply on the route leading to a long wait until Saturday morning before I finally felt the relief of clipping the chain of Anabolica (ninth redpoint!). As the week progressed I just couldn’t understand what was wrong. I had ticked a F8a+ 2nd RP on the previous trip. After a months training I was expecting to make good progress on a F8b/+. Why the hell was I taking so long to do this supposedly easy F8a.

Crux sequence 1 of Anabolica (Images courtesy of Hotaches).

The final redpoint was fairly close to the wire. The first redpoint of the day using a new sequence I dreamed up the night before worked taking me higher and within two moves from the rest. My right shoulder had other plans though and it throbbed painfully from the crux move looking to end my trip. After an hours massage the pain had subsided enough for one final fight which lead to the successful ascent. More than anything else I wanted to complete the route to justify the effort I had put in over the week. Giving up didn’t really seem an option but I dreaded the thought of going home after a week having climbed only one route.

Crux sequence 2 of Anabolica (Images courtesy of Hotaches).

I think my poor efforts on the route boil down to not having trained enough endurance before the trip. No amount of power or stamina on the route could save me from fading in the 15-30 move region. This is something I’ll definitely need to address for future trips by doing more interval circuits. I feel that I’ve taken away a lot more psychologically from Anabolica, it really has been an exercise in pride, determination and self belief.

Last week I spent a week sport climbing out in Siurana with Edinburgh climbers Sam Clarke and Iain Moody. Being my first foreign climbing holiday in a couple of years I wanted to climb as much as possible and keep redpoint attempts to a minimum. I have been keen to visit the Catalonya area of Spain for some time, finding the thought of steep limestone routes in an un-trashed state very appealing. The picturesque area of Siurana certainly didn’t disappoint, benefiting from easy access, lots of route styles and favorable October weather.

For accommodation we decided to stay at the cliff top refugio which had its own indoor crag well before the likes of Ratho. The guardian is none other that local activist Toni Arbones who set up home here over a decade ago. Suirana has become a true home to him with his partner and parents helping to run the refugio and campsite.

The cliff top refugio at Siurana sports an indoor rockface and the best view for eating your morning cornflakes in the area.

The initial plan was of attack to have a two part trip: first to visit in October, then again in November, leaving 4 weeks for training in between. This would give me the chance to find some projects to train for the second visit.

On the first day we did some climbing on the valley crags at sectors Can Marges and Cam Piqipugi but rapidly found it was too hot to climb anything above a 6 in the sun. We retreated in the evening to the valley crags and some steep short routes at sector L’olla. Here I dispatched Ya os Vale F7c 1st RP. I also tried Tick I Tock F8a+ along side it succeeding on all but the final move. Both of these routes I found suited my small fingers giving me an advantage for once! After some rain I returned the following day to dispatch Tick I Tock 2nd go which felt excellent puffing away like a steam train to the LO.

Having climbed some routes I then went on to look for a harder project to try. For this I choose to try Migranya F8b, an excellent steep roof traverse with hard moves. After an initial stick clip up the route I decided the style suited me. A hard move in the middle and easier climbing above, suiting one with as little stamina as me. I returned a day latter to try the crux but was unable to make the move off the two finger pocket to the jug. I’m making excuses about stature again but couldn’t help feel that a bigger span could help on the crux using the three pocket to the right. Sadly, I couldn’t see myself doing the route in November and would have to find another project.

More rain heralded a move further north so we travelled to Terradets, a crag renowned for its steepness and hard routes. Arriving at the crag my worst fears were confirmed, there weren’t any short routes! I decided to try something easier and went for an adventure up the crag classic Occident F7c. I was surprised to find no hard moves on the route, a line of jugs leading to the final crux though a tufa pipe curtain. After a while dogging around I found a sequence I was happy with and lowered down for a redpoint.

I knew the journey upwards wouldn’t be easy, but somehow I managed to fight my third bolt pump all the way to the final crux which was surprising. Sadly next go I had nothing left and the lightning storm around us was enough to shatter my confidence. I dogged up to strip the draws and LO just as the tufas started to stream with water. I definitely plan to revisit the route and crag with some fitness. It’s a wonderful wall to push ones hard onsight grade.

Terradets, funky jug pulling with routes mainly in the F7c+-F8a+ region. If your fit you could walk away with many hard OS’s.

Dry cool weather the next day allowed us to return to Cam Piqipugi where everyone was psyched to try and onsight or flash the classic power endurance route Anabolica F8a. I had no such plan a quick redpoint would be sufficient. Sadly on dogging up the start I had a problem with a long reach at the third move off an undercut. After several tries I found I just couldn’t do the move and lowered disappointed. After the others tried I decided to have one more go and finally found a foot hold that allowed me to slap for the pocket. Suddenly the route seemed more achievable and I pushed on to work out the top section. The moves up the initial wall seemed ok. The two cruxes through the bulge were also ok. However, the traverse between them on poor smears seemed pumpy and was where a German climber trying the route was failing. With a final day before returning home I decided Anabolica could wait.

German climber on the crux of the classic power endurance route Anabolica F8a.

On the remaining day we all ticked through as many 6’s and easy 7’s as possible on sector Siuranella. I was glad to dispatch the classic looking 7a up a steeping orange wall. This was the first onsighting I’ve done in ages and it was actually a fairly enjoyable fight. Before leaving I also managed a reasonable flash of Valga’m deu quin patir F7a+ of at sector L’olla. Efforts not worth shouting about, but at least it was good to know my OS grade hasn’t gotten any worse over the years. Next year I might even set a target of 7b, that would be something.

The final highlight of the last night had to be at the campsite cafe when Toni Arbones dad played us one of his top shelf climbing movies. I’ve never seen so many fit women before climbing F8b. One was even equipping a new route in a cave hanging acrobatically upside-down with a hammer drill. Eventually though, the crowd grumbled for a Sharma video to be put back on.