Jerry on the crux of Liquid Ambar (Pic from Doylos blog).
Twenty years ago today Jerry Moffat made the first ascent of Liquid Ambar at Lower Pen Trwyn Wales. It was the country’s first 8c, a crown it was only to hold for a matter of weeks before Ben Moon climbed Hubble at 8c+. Today the [...]
Got to Anvil on Saturday with Mike. My plan was to get Bloodfire F8a+ finished off from a couple of years back. That was the plan anyway. After a warm up on the top I got stuck into the start. Nursing latent memories I strung my old sequence back together but I couldn’t remember how [...]
Went to Anvil today with most of the ‘climbing flat’. Managed a bit of progress on Blody Blow. Finally found a good spot on the RH sloper to pinch that I can move off below and pinch well enough to bring my feet round. All moves done today and route in 4 links. Had three [...]
Goredale waterfall.
Saturday 2 – Sunday 3rd August. I didn’t have much luck finding anyone keen for Yorkshire at the weekend. Still keen, I thought I’d take the opportunity to reccie some hard routes I wanted to try. On Saturday I visited Hollywood bowl to check out Angel Eyes and Accelerator both F8b+. After stick clipping [...]
Saturday 27th October. I had planned on getting to the Anvil this weekend but with a poor forecast I started to look further afield. Yorkshire looked like it has seen some dry weather in recent weeks, thinking Malham would be dry I contacted Owen and was glad to hear he was keen to visit too.
The [...]
Previous high point on La Puta Rue F8b+ in March, Margalef, Spain.
I’ll be heading back to Spain in less than four weeks to try and complete the unfinished projects from my last visit. Top of my agenda is to complete an F8b+ at Margalef I tried called A La Puta Rue which crosses a cool [...]
Sunday 20 May. After another long week and another bleak forecast into the weekend I found myself digging deep motivationally to return to the Anvil. After three weeks of getting very close to finishing the project I was questioning what it would take to complete. Mentally over the last week I was starting [...]
Saturday 20th April. The weather was back to the west coast norm today with a forecast of heavy showers. It didn’t turn out to be as bad as I expected when we arrived at the Anvil. The crag wasn’t too wet but closer inspection revealed a lot of surface dampness. Dave’s project was too wet [...]
Saturday 14th. A change in spring weather away from the cooler temperatures was welcomed by many across the country. However, training mid week at 11pm in my T-shirt I started to doubt how good conditions at the Anvil would be. On Saturday I returned for another go on my project along a psyched west coast [...]
After a very hectic couple of months working hard and moving house I have been feeling very stressed out and run down. Good form training and on Sabotage has again slipped from my fingers. I was therefore glad to get back to Catalonia for a climbing holiday but understood that my ambitions would not be [...]
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