Cold Fusion Blog

Saturday 27th October. I had planned on getting to the Anvil this weekend but with a poor forecast I started to look further afield. Yorkshire looked like it has seen some dry weather in recent weeks, thinking Malham would be dry I contacted Owen and was glad to hear he was keen to visit too.

The Malham catwalk, home to some of the most technical routes in the UK.

It had been nearly six years since my last regular visits to Malham. In 2001 I had a good spring season from Jan-April before the foot and mouth outbreak. Prior to that I managed Raindogs and made good progress at the starts of Overnight, Energy Vampire (both F8a+) and Magnetic Fields F8b. Having visited Malham a lot over the late 90’s was initially disgusted at its polish, hideous holds and technical sequences. I’d gotten over this by opting to visit in the cooler winter months where on a clear day the catwalk temperatures were perfect for redpointing.

Magnetic Fields F8b, Malham Cove, North Yorkshire.

Having tried Magnetic Fields over several years I was keen to try it again. Getting back on the route it was a push to warm up on the start. The heinous undercuts moving up to the crux proper had been dubbed F7c. Refreshing my old sequence I struggled to work out a foot sequence (a common problem here) and link it to the crux. I worked the crux of the large undercut my old way. Stretching for the pocket back muscles strained and twisted painfully. After a few goes I managed to rework the sequence and link it through. I was keen to redpoint later but the weather had other plans as condensation rapidly built up on the face (from the weather transition from cold to warm and moist) making climbing impossible. In all managed the route in three links, not quite the redpoint I had imagined but I suppose its motivation to train harder as always.

Saturday 20 October. I wasn’t sure when I get back on my Camel project again, luckily a text from Michael secured another weekend visit. Determined to finish the job I got stuck into my midweek power endurance and fitness training. Mid week I was shocked to find I’d gained a bit of excess weight over my average, surprising given all my long walks out to the Anvil. I had been trying to make changes to my diet since March, but the sugary lunchtime cakes have proved overpowering. Frustrated I finally went cold turkey opting instead for humble salad leaves and an apple during the working day.

Keen to gauge my performance I headed back to the Camel on Saturday with Michael. Driving north the weather was noticeably good for late autumn with warm sunshine breaking through the clouds. A good day to be out climbing. I was still worried that after midweek frost the temperature in the shade of the Camel would be too chilly for long routes. Warming up the temperature seemed comfortable after some initial hot aches. After placing the clips on the project and a bit of practice I got redpointing. On my first go I meant only down climb from a clip but ended up pushing onwards complete with thermals. Feeling anxious about overheating and the extra weight I lost concentration before the crux edge. Next go stripped down and psyched I pulled through the crux to the rest in a series of aggressive grunts. I felt apprehensive on the rest, would I still blow it, would I pump off the next section or would a pebble snap. I pushed on.

The first crux sequence of Ubuntu at the Camel (pics Mike Tweedley).

After making the next clip I flicked my arms quickly before firing on through the endurance crux with some energy to spare for once. I moved steadily to the lower off careful not to pump off or snap anything. It felt like a hell of a ride hanging onto the big cobbles and looking down the face from where I’d come. I clipped the lower off feeling uplifted, I’d put enough work in for it to mean a lot to me, but not too much for once that It’d become too stressful. After taking some photos we finished the day by doing some laps on Inverarnie Schwarzenegger F7a. Michael decided todo some alpine training with his duvet and rucksac on, I declined and got just as pumped in the falling darkness.

The second crux sequence of Ubuntu at the Camel (pics Mike Tweedley).

I’ve called the new line Ubuntu, after the South African ideal of which one meaning is “I am because you are”. Such an ideal seems to represent my own life lately. As inspiring lines capture my imagination they shape my life, taking me to different places, interacting with friends old and new and always motivating me to improve. I’ve graded the route F8a given the fair effort its took over the last month. I’ll leave it to others to seen if they can find an easier sequence and adjust the grade if necessary. Big thanks to Michael for coming along and taking the snaps, I’ll be working you hard on those crux’s when its my turn on photo duty. Time to step up a gear for the next project.

Saturday 13th – Sunday 14th. After a hard week I was keen to get climbing this weekend. My finger was feeling sore after finishing the Aggazzis traverse on Sunday and Monday. Tuesday’s training didn’t happen as I felt rubbish and instead opted for an early night to sleep it off. I finally managed some training on Wednesday and Thursday.

Looking up towards the Camel.

On Saturday I got back up to the Camel with Mike to try my project. A two week gap, a late night and an early start weren’t to my advantage however. Never the less I got on the route since conditions were good being unseasonably mild for late October. As a warm up I managed to down climb from the start of the bulge saving a clip on redpoint. On the bulge I worked out a more efficient sequence that got me to the crux quickly and to the rest in less than 15 moves. The top section through the cobbles still felt tricky and blow-able, I managed to find a shake in the middle of it to prevent a flash pump. My first couple of redpoints went really well and I felt strong right up to the crux snatch for a small edge blocking access to the rest. I was convinced I could do it but on my next tries I felt knackered failing well below my high point. Trying a link through the crux to the top I flash pumped off the middle section as predicted. Lowering to the rest I continued to the top fighting a gripping pump right to the chain, only to then have to grab it because I was too pumped to lift the 20m of rope hanging below me. Pretty sure the route is F8a now, especially when my power faded. Michael also managed some good links on the route finding a different sequence at the top which he linked. My worries over the loose cobbles off route that I hadn’t check with the MOT hammer we’re confirmed when several broke loose. A helmet is advisable for belaying.

Pulling through the crux of Shadowlands F7c. (Cubby Images)

On Sunday I headed over to the Anvil again with Malcolm. Feeling quite tired I decided to try Mikes route Shadowlands F7c while the crack was still dry. Having watched so many people on it I was keen to try and flash it. After a warm up I headed up but got wrong handed and footed on the crux before my foot slipped. It took me a few goes to work out the proper sequence as it was harder than I expected. After working out the top and having a good rest I got it 1st RP, but it was still a fight to the LO. Having seen Emma try the route earlier this year I’m pretty sure she can do it too. After visiting with Dave the day before Malcolm was back to try the Anvil F9a project again. He managed a few good redpoints getting well into the crux and touching the crux hold. Afterwards I had a quick go on Body Blow myself but couldn’t do the crux move again after the hold snapped. Still I got my hand round the hold a couple of times by just flagging my foot rather than using the left foothold, so maybe that’s the way for me. On the top section I tried Alan/Malcolms method at reaching the edge using the ear and good foothold out right. It felt stretched but much more controled than any other method. Using the right off the slopey hold with a thumb divot and the slightly nearer part of the foothold I could reach more comfortably but still couldn’t quite hang it. Improved beta, but still not the progress I’m looking for. Malcolm finished the day by lapping the F8a/+ top section of Body Blow!

This week I’ll have to work hard on my power endurance and endurance, I need to get the project finished before it gets too chilly. After that’s done hopefully I’ll have some time left to try Body Blow properly. I’ve no illusions of how difficult this is and how long it might take me.

Saturday 6th Sunday 7th October. Having told so many people I was keen to visit the Anvil again I was still surprised to have four comrades this weekend. After picking up Malcolm, Alan, Robin and Dave over various pick up points we headed back over to Lochgoilhead. Despite the good forecast the weather gradually deteriorated to cold west coast drizzle. Undeterred we got walking.

The last time I visited the Anvil I was close to sending Bloodfire, but got denied at the last crux. This time I was keen to try the project right of Spitfire and Bodyblow. Firstly I spent a few hours taking some snaps with my new camera, trying hard to balance the concept of shutter speed. Dave and Malcolm were trying the direct start to Body Blow, a potential F9a.

Dave linking Bloodfire into Body Blow.

Dave on the V11 crux of Body Blow.

Alan was trying lots of different things. Robin succeeded on Bloodfire, cruising to the LO, then made made some good progress on the Smiddy. Not bad considering the drizzly weather. After all this I’d was pretty cold and I remembered why odd numbers at the Anvil were bad. The odd one out for the day I couldn’t really warm up or try the routes I wanted. The project right of Spitfire had definitely be superseded by Malcolm’s Blackout F8b. With Dave and Malcolm chomping at the bit on the project I couldn’t really get dibs on Body Blow for a long session. Also it didn’t help that a hold on the crux had snapped off, it was greasy and I was still getting over an injury. With motivation panned for the day I decided to rest thinking I might get something done on Sunday.

Malcolm on Body Blow and Robin on the Smiddy.

Waking to the inevitable Sunday morning alarm my psyche was still gone. Text’s from Richie and Mike confirmed another day solo. Still feeling burned from bad forecasts and long drives I took myself back to bed until lunchtime. I kept myself occupied with some finger boarding (nearly managing a one hander), DIY, moving and the F7b+ traverse at Aggazziss I’d still not done. Other than getting some good snaps, bit of a wasted weekend, especially when the weather improved on Sunday. Bit depressing not getting anything done when another five days in hell are on the way.

Saturday 30 - Sunday 31 October. This weekend I headed back to the Camel to try a project I had equipped. I had been told by Neil Shepherd a few years ago that there was potential for a couple of hard lines on the right of the Camel up a steep sweeping bulge. Others had put me off checking it out for myself with tales of choosy conglomerate. In late July I finally visited the crag for myself and was pleasantly surprised, the rock looked interesting and was fairly solid conglomerate. Abseiling down the bulge the lines looked impressive and hard but would definitely go. A couple of weeks ago I took a day off work to equip and clean the line but ran out of time before I could try any of the moves.

On Saturday I headed up early to try the route and camped out ready to meet up with Lindsey the next day for a belay. After some more cleaning I finally got to try the moves on a jummar. The bottom section of the bulge had a few stiff moves. I managed to work out a sequence moving right to a handrail using small slopey sidepulls and toe hooks. The top section had slightly easier longer moves on cobblestones panning back to easier vertical climbing. Based the moves and some short links I thought the line might be F7c+.

Trying the new project.

On Sunday I met up with Lindsey. After some problems finding a belay stance on the steep gully I got cracking. I had a lot of trouble trying to link the bottom section and could only manage three links. Regardless I went for a redpoint only to rip off one of the pebbles on the crux quite spectacularly. A found I could do the move without it and continued. As I tired the top section started to feel hard and I could only manage short links with my fitness was waning with so little training. After reassessment I felt the line to be F8a/+.

With the winter chills on the way I’m going to have to get fit quick to complete the line. My finger has been getting stronger every week and I’ve managed to finger board ok, but have been shutdown on my crimpy board problems. Hopefully it will steadily improve so I can get stuck into some PE training again.

I’ve been lost for something to do this week nursing an injury and being unable to train. Organising the house I found an old copy of On the Edge from 1996 that listed all the hardest UK sport routes of F8a and above. Since I’ve been unable to find an up to date online version I decided to start my own list of the UK’s hardest sport routes on wikipedia. Based on my own knowledge and with some help from scottishclimbs and ukclimbing users we’re now a step closer to an authoritative listing. Some people did mention that it would be exhaustive to list all the routes above F8a, so we’ve decided on a cut off point of F8b+ (since F8a isn’t that hard any more). There’s still some subjective rationalisation needed in sorting routes within the grade by their difficulty. Hopefully people will keep updating it over the years. It’s fantastic to see how much progress has occurred in the past decade. Even better to see the OTE project list completed: Transform, Northern Lights and Ring of Steall.

Saturday 17th – Sunday 18th September. After getting past the crux on Full Tilt last weekend only to pump off I really tried to clock up the hours on the board this week. I was rewarded by completing my long standing F8b PE problem this time pulling through on the final 6b crux 33 moves in. To address those fitness problems from last weekend I did more running and lots of laps on the board to really feel the burn. Confident I finally had what it took to finish the job I headed back to Kilnsey along with Alan Cassidy and Malcolm Smith.

On Saturday I made a 6 am start in order to catch the bus to Glasgow to meet with the guys. Maybe it was the tiredness but it felt strange to be at the crag with Alan and Malcolm, like being at a foreign crag. The normally imposing north buttress was but a Olympic standard play park to these guys. First off Alan got a rope up True North F8c, a route he’d come very close to completing in June, only to be denied by a foot slip 3 moves from easier ground. It was impressive to watch Alan working the moves and I had to keep reminding myself again and again that the climbing wasn’t as easy as he made it look. I was silently taking notes on the moves. The knee bar in the sideways position looked good and less strenuous than my higher variation. After the nesting birds had finished with it the pocket at the top looked good, breaking up more of the hard climbing. Alan’s redpoints began but after a long break from the route he was frustrated to have lost his previous level of fluidity. After a few redpoints he’d had enough.

Alan Cassidy on True North F8c.

I got back on Full Tilt and worked though the moves to warm up. I tried out Alan’s sideways knee bar but it felt too strenuous. Sticking with my own method I got redpointing. Second RP I managed to pull through to the jug again and into the knee bar properly. As my legs burnt out I pulled out with fresh arms into the final crux just failing to stick the final hold. Next RP I changed clipping position to save a few moves but couldn’t get the kneebar in place properly and vibrated off under the tension. On the Final RP I pulled out again but was too knackered. Finally, I did manage to find a better position for the final move using a lower foothold such that my feet weren’t round my neck, a position I wish I’d known about earlier on in the day.

In between Alan and I’s tries Malcolm succeeded on Northern Exposure F8b+ second go that day, finally managing to move from the minging crimp at the top. Next he dispatched Urgent Action F8a+, second go and nearly did the Thumb F8a, after playing on these routes previously over the years. Not a bad recovery from the man flu.

Malcolm clipping on Northern Exposure F8b+ just before the V10 crux.

On Sunday redpoint service resumed. I waited my turn as Alan and Malcolm made easy ticks of Bullet, Cold Steal and Stolen between them. I got back on Full Tilt. After straining my RH ring A2 pulley last weekend on the crux pocket my finger ached. Redpointing was becoming a real minefield balancing desire to finish the route with the increased amount of injury time off. On two out of my three redpoints I managed to touch the last hold again but just wasn’t recovered enough from the knee bar, a rest that was far from relaxing for me. As the Autumn rains began I dogged up the remained or True North to strip it - knackered and without the two links I had hoped for this summer. Time was up and the game was over.

I’ve waited until writing up my thoughts on Full Tilt. I had hoped to have made light work of my many projects this summer but have failed on all of them: Burley, Ceasefire, Bloodfire, Snipe Shadow and Full Tilt. I’d hoped to have ticked this lot after completing Fire Power back in May and from pushing my training intensity and frequency. Even my final strategy of picking a project and sticking with it to the bitter end has failed due to injury, seepage and loss of interest in the crag. In all reasons to feel pretty down! I have to keep reminding myself that success is infrequent, short lived and sometimes unfulfilling . Each day trying a hard route I take away much more by competing, working out the moves, doing the training and always making progress. Not so much a means to an end as to the start of the next project. Injury permitting the start of the next project is but a few weeks away.

Sunday 9th September. After last weeks disappointing effort on Full Tilt I was resolute to improve. To improve my fitness levels I ran for thirty minutes each evening mid week. Tuesday’s training was nothing special but on Thursday I found myself breaking a six week plateau by nearly climbing one of my PE problems. Instead of failing two moves into the second problem again, I just kept on flicking between the small edges. I still failed on the pumpy finale indicating I still need work on my 30-40 move endurance range but my 20-30 move PE had definitely improved. The only factor in improving this week would seem to have been the running! I was keen to see if these improvements would be mirrored on Full Tilt.

My late night street pounders.

On Sunday I headed to Kilnsey for the day with Lindsey who was kind enough to belay. The route was now completely dry after nearly a month without heavy rain. Equipping the route the individual moves felt good. After explaining and practicing all the clipping positions to Lindsey I went for the redpoint. On reaching the third bolt I felt confident in my sequence after quickly practicing the other variations. Flicking through I caught the edge badly but felt strong enough to pull through. On the sidepull I was rapidly tiring but fired on. The crux pocket felt dry and positive for once. Fingers arching I slapped left in control but was stopped by the undercut move to the jug. Second go I made a more determined effort and caught the spike badly. Signalled by my wobbling Lindsey took the rope tight. Against the tight rope I managed to match the spike yell for slack and reach for the jug, yelling for slack I rapidly flash pumped off. On the next two redpoints I was stopped at the undercut again. I tried a final link for the day from the crux to the top. Everything felt easy until the final throw before the belay. I reckon I need a little more practice on the hands off rest. It currently works my thighs hard and I can’t bear the pain for more than a minute. I might even gain some ground if I go straight to the knee bar before clipping and avoid getting pumped on the jug.

As much as I have improved this week I still wasn’t fit enough to complete the route or even make the proper overlapping halves. All the effort in completing this route is starting to tire me out but the motivation to complete it remains. I’ve had eight visits to Kilnsey this year to try it but on three occasions I’ve had a bad sequence or the route has been seeping. So filtering these out it can’t be that many successive days really. Given that October is on the way and I’d like to climb elsewhere before the year is out so I guess I’ll limit myself to another two visits then move on. Whatever the outcome my efforts this year should hopefully pave the way for a future attempt of True North.

Saturday 1st – Sunday 2nd September. With the late arrival of the Azores high things have been quiet on the weather front across most of the country so at a push I agreed to a trip to Kilnsey and Steall Hut crag this weekend.

On Saturday I headed back to Kilnsey with Iain Moody. After last weeks defeat Iain was hungry for success on Metal Guru which he dispatched first redpoint without incident. I got back on Full Tilt which looked temptingly dry, a light wind fending off the humidity. Firstly I tried the crux using the small pocket which went first go in the cool air, an improvement on last weekends defeat. The move still felt sketchy through the barn door left but the pocket held. Further up the knee bar felt terrific and I managed to get the complete hands free (at the expense of a now lumpy knee). First redpoint I got spat off moving right on the edges from the third bolt. Pulling on from below I managed to link through up to the jug but suddenly got pumped and couldn’t get into the knee bar. Trying the link to the chain from here I kept on failing on the hand shuffle on the right, three moves that take you no where. Deciding that I definitely blow it here on redpoint I persevered to find another method. After a few goes I found I could crimp the foot hold in the groove to conveniently cross into the pocket saving two moves. With the improved beta I felt I’d squeezed 90% out of the route. Psyched I made another two redpoints but again failed on the crimps moving right. Considering that I’d got passed these moves back in June I was getting very frustrated at the lack of progress despite two months of training. I found another hold to play with but still couldn’t find a smooth sequence to get me to the crux every time. This would have appeared to be the remaining 10%. Each way I tried my left foot always ended up too stretched, when I needed to walk it through. It later occurred to me to try using the crimp to move my feet, or to bend my knee more when using the edge. Further up I’ve been thinking about moving straight into the knee bar avoiding the 6b move to the pocket. I guess I’ve got another frustrating wait to find out which works best.

Mike Tweedley findng the hands off rest on Stolen.

On Saturday I headed to Steall Hut crag with Mike Tweedley. Although I kept promising people I’d make it here this summer I’ve just never found the time. I was keen to try Dave MacLeods new route Stolen which takes the ambitious line on the left side of Steall Hut crag, zig-zaging between obvious weaknesses. I was surprised at first to hear that Dave had climbed the route first redpoint and offered such a low grade. Mike had already tried the route so I let him jump on for the demonstration. After a powerful start moving left (F7c) a hand free rest can be had, a novelty for a Scottish F8b. From here steep powerful climbing leads further left to a series of good underclings. Moving back right is hindered by the lack of footholds sapping crucial strength before the final crux. Just when you think your done a further technical traverse left blocks access to the belay. In all a truly epic adventure similar in character to the existing Steall routes where undercuts and sidepulls with polished off cracks are the norm. On my turn I managed all the moves and some short links. After one session I was aching and done for the day, muscles aching from exotic moves I wasn’t accustomed to.

Gearing up for Stolen on Steall Crag.

I can’t help feel disappointed at my progress this summer. Despite training much more and varying my training I still can’t seem to improve to the level I want and get those elusive routes ticked. I’ve not been seeing the progress I would like from my PE training but know that there is no other way to improve this aspect. I know I shouldn’t have plateaued only after a couple of weeks after changing from power to PE training. At the crag I’m feeling the dreaded performance spike where I warm up, peak then feel tired very quickly. I think these two problems are occurring because my fitness has dropped as I’ve had no remaining time or energy to train this too. This week I’m going to run every night and make sure I get those laps done on the board. Here hoping for a break through.

Saturday 25th - Sunday 26th August. I headed back down to Kilnsey again this weekend with Iain Moody. On Saturday I was disappointed to find that several key holds were still wet on Full Tilt, too many to justify redpointing. I did manage to workout a knee bar that was good enough to rest the arms a little. Sitting on the lower off I finally gave into the urge to continue clipping up True North to see what the moves were like. I managed to do most of the moves into the hanging corner where technically the hard climbing is over. The moves right of the Full Tilt chain were tough on small finger edges to reach a pocket. A long cross through then allows the undercut horn to be gained. A final span on poor feet to a good hold blocks access to the groove. It would seem there are around 40-50 moves from the ground to the corner or 20-25 from the knee bar. All feasible for the F8c tick. The hardest part however, seems to be getting the whole route dry! In all an inspiring route that I’d love to climb, for now I’ll have to keep dreaming.

Later that evening I tried Subculture F8a again, another route that seepage has denied me for several years. Dogging up I found the crux pocket was still wet. I dried it and stuck a towel in, intending to pull it out from below. Going for the redpoint I quickly cranked out the first two pulls to the resting jugs. I gathered psyche and pulled left into the crux only to look up at the towel still in the hold. Angrily I dropped off cursing, only then to be hit in the face by the towel a few seconds later. Timing is everything. Annoyed, I stripped the route in the fading light.

Exposed crux of the Ashes F7c+ at Kilnsey.

On Sunday the seepage situation had surprisingly improved after a good blast of warm morning sunshine. The hold on Subculture looked dry, but I still felt burned. Instead I decided to try The Ashes F7c+, an impressive route that arches up to the roof on the right of Kilnsey’s south buttress. I’d been told the route had a bouldery crux near the top after the relatively easy bottom section. Dogging up I started to feel the exposure getting to me. The crux moves didn’t feel too bad. I was more worried about how to do the crux clip and the final moves to the break (which I wasn’t brave enough to lead). Deciding that the crux looked to sketchy in the warmth I stripped it and left it for another day.
Lost for something to try I decided to go back on Subculture. The wet hold from the previous evening surprisingly looked a lot better so I decided to go for it. I felt shaky on redpoint from the tension, but soon smoothed out through the crux. Catching the crux undercut with a slight wobble I kept on going to the top for the easy 8a tick, five years on.

Mid crux on Subculture a couple years ago, Kilnsey.

Over on south buttress Iain made quick progress on Metal Guru, even coming away relatively un-phased by the loose run out to the belay. After three redpoints he was very unlucky not to do it. On each redpoint he seemed to be denied by small errors. I’ve been in this position myself a hundred times. It occurred to me that we need to either practice routes to the point where every single move has been practiced several times, or we need to practice error recovery when a sequence goes wrong.

Before heading home I had a few more tries on Full Tilt but couldn’t do the crux I had done first go on Wednesday. I just couldn’t use the pinch in the greasy heat. I think I might have to go back to using the small pocket after all. Frustrated at my lack of progress I gave it a final go, dropping onto the rope the sheath failed quite catastrophically prompting a very tentative retreat.

My rope after sheath failure, luckily not from a high fall.