Cold Fusion Blog

On Saturday I returned to Dumbuck with Niall McNair to try Voodoo Magic F8b. This is a route I was very close to doing back in 1999 failing some six times reaching for the lower off chain. I can remember feeling very frustrated about this, then more so in learning of Dave MacLeod’s ascent a few month later using the jugs out left before the chain. Since then the route has seen several repeats and is by far Scotlands most popular F8b.

Reassured that some seven years on I am now stronger I was sure dispatching the route would be a quick process. Working through the moves I was surprised that some felt easier but some harder. I was also surprised to find a couple on new holds, one of which I think has involved foul play. The original route had a hard sequence below the final handrail using a small left had crimp. Next to this hold a better hold now exists which is smeared in grey resin. I suspect that the hold underneath is natural but some in-filling and re-excavation has taken place by parties unknown. I was a little bit saddened by this as the new hold does make the sequence to the rail a little easier, taking something away from Andy Gallager’s original sequence.

After a couple of dogs refreshing the moves I went for the redpoint. Sadly tiredness from illness and work seemed to conspire against me and I suddenly felt really tired, wilting off below the crux. I then managed to fall badly and give myself a dead knee. Niall

was more successful: after getting good links on the dog it was no surprise to see him dispatch Voodoo first redpoint, a great effort. After another redpoint I was done, barely managing to link three moves together. Things weren’t looking good and I decided to call it a day, reassured that it would feel much better on return without the funky tiredness.

Niall McNair happy after sending Voodoo Magic F8b first redpoint.

Negativity aside, I was happy to be back at Dumbuck. I was reflective of so many days spent here trying Devastation in my late teens and early twenties. Looking out over the autumn tree line to Dumbarton both seemed in a state of change. I hoped that like these old trees I too could stand defiant, growing each year and reaching higher.