Cold Fusion Blog

Saturday 3rd - Sunday 4th November. Its been a difficult week. After long days at work dieting plans have left me tired and crabby, a less than idea training state. I’ve also been aware of a drop in my training performance. After three midweek finger board sessions my right shoulder had finally had enough and painfully cramped up on Thursday stopping play for the evening. I was becoming increasingly frustrated at my loss of performance, forgetting that more rest should probably be in order.

Malham Cove in late Autumn, North Yorkshire.

On Saturday I headed down to Malham again with Owen and Mike. I made the prerequisite 6am start to make the most of the available winter light. This weekend the weather had improved a little too much and instead of it being too cold and wet it was too hot and sweaty, easily 18 Deg on the cat walk. Sweating away under Magnetic having just put my shoes on conditions didn’t look good. Ignoring my instincts to bin it and wait for cooler day I struggled upward trying to get to the second bolt. Damp sweaty finger tips made the first section desperate and after 30 mins of trying my fingers were bruised, my feet hurt and I still hadn’t linked the F7c bottom section. With frustration boiling inside I bit back the urge to throw my rock shoes into the Beck again. I had been here in this situation so many times before nearly a decade ago. Had I learned nothing. The only way forward would be cool conditions. I also though that I new pair of shoes and a better foot sequence on the first crux would help. Resolute on the way forward I striped it and went off to try something harder.

Owen trying Bongo Fury F7b, Malham Cove, North Yorkshire.

I’d always been keen to do one of the great looking extensions through the bulge on the right of the catwalk. For me there was a choice of two lines. Power Ranger F8b+, done my Tony Mitchell climbing above Wasted Youth via a 13 move V9 sequence onto an easier headwall. And Transform F8c, by Malcolm Smith climbing above Rose Coronary via a 7 move V11 sequence onto an again easier headwall. I’d tried Power Ranger some eight years ago managing to link it in three and redpointing up to the crux. Returning some years later I found a hold had snapped and I was unable to find another workable way. I’d tried Transform a couple of times but was unable to do a couple of the hardest moves. On this route I was keen to make headway. Climbing Rose Coronary I got too pumped for comfort (I really must learn to use my feet) getting up to the bulge. Hanging out in space I watched as a nother climber got agonisingly close to redpointing Power Ranger. It was great to see someone so psyched to complete a route at close proximity and I only wished I was there myself that day.

Jordan Buys on the crux of Power Ranger F8b+, Malham Cove, North Yorkshire.

I got back to refamiliarising myself with the holds on Transform making massive adjustments to memory. The holds were much better and closer together than I had remembered. However, there was an big absence of footholds. I still seemed like there were two methods. Either to undercut the tufa feature with the left hand and make a long reach out for the poor sidepull crimp, or to use a poor pinch and high foot on the left to gain it dynamically. I didn’t make much progress before the light began to fade and it was time to go., but I’ll be back up there for sure.

On Sunday I meet up with John Watson and co at Aggazzis Rock, Edinburgh to show him some of my problems there for his new book. Working through my old problems they still didn’t feel easy. My main focus was to repeat my traverse Life Beneath the Darkness Fr 8a+. It took me a good 20 minutes to refresh the moves before going for it. My first try was a real fight to make it up to the final moves. Luckily my next goes felt more fluid, the moves flowing nicely together. I didn’t manage to complete the problem but the attempts gave me a good beasting. I’ll have to try and get back soon to repeat it and finish off some of my other hard projects there.

The weekend has given my a lot to think about. If I’m ever going to improve I’m going to have to get my training sorted. Recently it would seem my motivation for training has been my greatest enemy. I should really pay closer attention to my training performance and get a couple of days rest after a heavy session. This week I think I’ll concentrate on doing problems and PE circuits on my board, leaving the finger boarding for a finishing off later in the evening. On the finger board I might also increase the hang time to 12-14 sec to see if this provides a better strength gaining stimulus.

Diet plans in March of to a bad start with my Blue Ribbon sponge.

Two weeks down, two weeks to go before Spain. On the whole still very psyched to get a F8b+ done this trip and willing to make the sacrifices for it. Making some progress so far:

• Finger injury – Still taping and keeping off the crimps, should continue to get less achy as the weeks go on.
• Finger Boarding - Over the start of the past fortnight my performance got slightly worse despite frequent sessions. One evening getting annoyed I made an adjustment to my grip position pre-weighting my fingers then digging my skin and nails into the back board. This improved my hang time by 4-5 sec which I was very excited about. I’ve also been try to get more psyched before and during hang time which seems to be helping. I think the influencing factors between a good and a bad day are definitely rest and psyche levels, although the weight loss is definitely helping. Starting to dab a one handed lock for a second on the left hand, but the right one needs a bit more work. I can’t help feel that a longer hang time in the 12-14 sec range would be better for building strength than the recommended 6-8 sec range. I might next try and alternate sessions between heavier weight with less hang time and a lighter weight with greater hang time.
• Power endurance – It took longer than I thought to set a PE problem similar to La Puta Rue, being tired late at night and trying to fit it around the existing holds on the board. Finally I got something set that felt similar to the route. On the first session I kept falling off on exactly the same move as my March redpoints so it seemed spot on. On the second session it felt easier and I nearly did it. As a quick comparison I tried my F8b problem from the late summer that I managed just before getting very high on Full Tilt. Maybe it was tiredness or poor familiarity with the problem but it felt a little harder! This means I need to make the F8b+ much harder. I don’t have the time to adjust the problem so I’m going to try and make the down climb harder with high feet and no resting jug. Failing that I might go and find myself a weight belt. I also spent a lot of time setting another F8b+ problem similar to Mr Checki. On this one I couldn’t make the first move hard enough and couldn’t do the press and two finger pocket moves. I’m starting to worry that setting such specific problems takes time away from getting a simple beasting on crimps.
• Weight – Been counting the calories obsessively. By skipping lunch and the treats midweek got my calorie count down to around 1000-1500 kcal’s a day. Drinking lots of tea has kept the hunger away. Over the weekend I’ve been slacker (within reason) to help maintain motivation. Managed to lose a kilo in the first week, but locked disappointingly at 65 this week. I’ve been worried about how a low calorie intake is affecting my training and recovery. Feel quite wasted before training even after eating around 500 kcal 2 hours before training. The sugar spike has been a little dizzying. Worried that I’m eating too much too soon, so going to try and spread my intake over a 4 hour period prior to training. Going to have to trim the numbers back further to get to my 63 kilo target.
• Sleep – Getting more sleep on Friday (in preparation for Saturdays climbing) and on Sunday morning but still not getting enough sleep mid week to feel good enough to train very hard. Must stop getting distracted late at night and go to bed earlier!
• Early training – Still not training early enough. Feel tired and burned out after work, low calorie intake probably not helping. Hopefully calorie spreading on training days will help.

Saturday 27th October. I had planned on getting to the Anvil this weekend but with a poor forecast I started to look further afield. Yorkshire looked like it has seen some dry weather in recent weeks, thinking Malham would be dry I contacted Owen and was glad to hear he was keen to visit too.

The Malham catwalk, home to some of the most technical routes in the UK.

It had been nearly six years since my last regular visits to Malham. In 2001 I had a good spring season from Jan-April before the foot and mouth outbreak. Prior to that I managed Raindogs and made good progress at the starts of Overnight, Energy Vampire (both F8a+) and Magnetic Fields F8b. Having visited Malham a lot over the late 90’s was initially disgusted at its polish, hideous holds and technical sequences. I’d gotten over this by opting to visit in the cooler winter months where on a clear day the catwalk temperatures were perfect for redpointing.

Magnetic Fields F8b, Malham Cove, North Yorkshire.

Having tried Magnetic Fields over several years I was keen to try it again. Getting back on the route it was a push to warm up on the start. The heinous undercuts moving up to the crux proper had been dubbed F7c. Refreshing my old sequence I struggled to work out a foot sequence (a common problem here) and link it to the crux. I worked the crux of the large undercut my old way. Stretching for the pocket back muscles strained and twisted painfully. After a few goes I managed to rework the sequence and link it through. I was keen to redpoint later but the weather had other plans as condensation rapidly built up on the face (from the weather transition from cold to warm and moist) making climbing impossible. In all managed the route in three links, not quite the redpoint I had imagined but I suppose its motivation to train harder as always.

Saturday 20 October. I wasn’t sure when I get back on my Camel project again, luckily a text from Michael secured another weekend visit. Determined to finish the job I got stuck into my midweek power endurance and fitness training. Mid week I was shocked to find I’d gained a bit of excess weight over my average, surprising given all my long walks out to the Anvil. I had been trying to make changes to my diet since March, but the sugary lunchtime cakes have proved overpowering. Frustrated I finally went cold turkey opting instead for humble salad leaves and an apple during the working day.

Keen to gauge my performance I headed back to the Camel on Saturday with Michael. Driving north the weather was noticeably good for late autumn with warm sunshine breaking through the clouds. A good day to be out climbing. I was still worried that after midweek frost the temperature in the shade of the Camel would be too chilly for long routes. Warming up the temperature seemed comfortable after some initial hot aches. After placing the clips on the project and a bit of practice I got redpointing. On my first go I meant only down climb from a clip but ended up pushing onwards complete with thermals. Feeling anxious about overheating and the extra weight I lost concentration before the crux edge. Next go stripped down and psyched I pulled through the crux to the rest in a series of aggressive grunts. I felt apprehensive on the rest, would I still blow it, would I pump off the next section or would a pebble snap. I pushed on.

The first crux sequence of Ubuntu at the Camel (pics Mike Tweedley).

After making the next clip I flicked my arms quickly before firing on through the endurance crux with some energy to spare for once. I moved steadily to the lower off careful not to pump off or snap anything. It felt like a hell of a ride hanging onto the big cobbles and looking down the face from where I’d come. I clipped the lower off feeling uplifted, I’d put enough work in for it to mean a lot to me, but not too much for once that It’d become too stressful. After taking some photos we finished the day by doing some laps on Inverarnie Schwarzenegger F7a. Michael decided todo some alpine training with his duvet and rucksac on, I declined and got just as pumped in the falling darkness.

The second crux sequence of Ubuntu at the Camel (pics Mike Tweedley).

I’ve called the new line Ubuntu, after the South African ideal of which one meaning is “I am because you are”. Such an ideal seems to represent my own life lately. As inspiring lines capture my imagination they shape my life, taking me to different places, interacting with friends old and new and always motivating me to improve. I’ve graded the route F8a given the fair effort its took over the last month. I’ll leave it to others to seen if they can find an easier sequence and adjust the grade if necessary. Big thanks to Michael for coming along and taking the snaps, I’ll be working you hard on those crux’s when its my turn on photo duty. Time to step up a gear for the next project.

Previous high point on La Puta Rue F8b+ in March, Margalef, Spain.

I’ll be heading back to Spain in less than four weeks to try and complete the unfinished projects from my last visit. Top of my agenda is to complete an F8b+ at Margalef I tried called A La Puta Rue which crosses a cool roof. In March I spent 4 days on it and got as far as doing overlapping halves and getting to the crux a few times on redpoint. This time the brutal crux span to and from a two finger pocket might give me problems because of my finger injury. Still I’m hopeful. I might also have a go on the F8c next to it that Dave managed as it looks just my style, but I’m not sure about the mono crux. At Siurana I’d like to try Mr Checki F8b+ again, having only had a brief play on it last year. Finally I need to finish of the F8a+ on the Can Marges boulder that I fell from the final moves on the last day of the trip in March. To make all this happen I’m going to have to get trained up fast to the specifics of these routes. Lots of pocket strength and power endurance are the way forward.

Short Term Objectives

• Finger injury – Icing and massage.
• Shoulder problems – lots push ups to build up antagonistics.
• Fingers board – hang an edge for 5 sec, currently 12 kilos to go.
• Power endurance - create specific problems in the 30 move range similar to target F8b+ routes.
• Endurance – laps in the 30-60 move range to fight the chain fever.
• Target weight 63 kilo – 4 kilos to lose, ditch the cakes and puds.
• More sleep – 6hrs isn’t cutting it.
• Train earlier – 9pm-1am is getting taxing on above.

Training plan

• Mon/Wed: 30min runs.
• Tues/Thur: Finger boarding 45-60min: warm up pull ups, 50 push ups and stretching, strength hangs 7 sets 8-10 sec at limit, 4 min rest. Board work 2hrs. Problems: three harder problems on board. PE: 6-9 sets on PE problems Fr 8a/b+, 7 min rest. One armers: 3 sets. Endurance: 3 sets as many laps as possible on board.
• Sat/Sun: Climbing or more finger boarding and stamina.

Saturday 13th – Sunday 14th. After a hard week I was keen to get climbing this weekend. My finger was feeling sore after finishing the Aggazzis traverse on Sunday and Monday. Tuesday’s training didn’t happen as I felt rubbish and instead opted for an early night to sleep it off. I finally managed some training on Wednesday and Thursday.

Looking up towards the Camel.

On Saturday I got back up to the Camel with Mike to try my project. A two week gap, a late night and an early start weren’t to my advantage however. Never the less I got on the route since conditions were good being unseasonably mild for late October. As a warm up I managed to down climb from the start of the bulge saving a clip on redpoint. On the bulge I worked out a more efficient sequence that got me to the crux quickly and to the rest in less than 15 moves. The top section through the cobbles still felt tricky and blow-able, I managed to find a shake in the middle of it to prevent a flash pump. My first couple of redpoints went really well and I felt strong right up to the crux snatch for a small edge blocking access to the rest. I was convinced I could do it but on my next tries I felt knackered failing well below my high point. Trying a link through the crux to the top I flash pumped off the middle section as predicted. Lowering to the rest I continued to the top fighting a gripping pump right to the chain, only to then have to grab it because I was too pumped to lift the 20m of rope hanging below me. Pretty sure the route is F8a now, especially when my power faded. Michael also managed some good links on the route finding a different sequence at the top which he linked. My worries over the loose cobbles off route that I hadn’t check with the MOT hammer we’re confirmed when several broke loose. A helmet is advisable for belaying.

Pulling through the crux of Shadowlands F7c. (Cubby Images)

On Sunday I headed over to the Anvil again with Malcolm. Feeling quite tired I decided to try Mikes route Shadowlands F7c while the crack was still dry. Having watched so many people on it I was keen to try and flash it. After a warm up I headed up but got wrong handed and footed on the crux before my foot slipped. It took me a few goes to work out the proper sequence as it was harder than I expected. After working out the top and having a good rest I got it 1st RP, but it was still a fight to the LO. Having seen Emma try the route earlier this year I’m pretty sure she can do it too. After visiting with Dave the day before Malcolm was back to try the Anvil F9a project again. He managed a few good redpoints getting well into the crux and touching the crux hold. Afterwards I had a quick go on Body Blow myself but couldn’t do the crux move again after the hold snapped. Still I got my hand round the hold a couple of times by just flagging my foot rather than using the left foothold, so maybe that’s the way for me. On the top section I tried Alan/Malcolms method at reaching the edge using the ear and good foothold out right. It felt stretched but much more controled than any other method. Using the right off the slopey hold with a thumb divot and the slightly nearer part of the foothold I could reach more comfortably but still couldn’t quite hang it. Improved beta, but still not the progress I’m looking for. Malcolm finished the day by lapping the F8a/+ top section of Body Blow!

This week I’ll have to work hard on my power endurance and endurance, I need to get the project finished before it gets too chilly. After that’s done hopefully I’ll have some time left to try Body Blow properly. I’ve no illusions of how difficult this is and how long it might take me.

Saturday 6th Sunday 7th October. Having told so many people I was keen to visit the Anvil again I was still surprised to have four comrades this weekend. After picking up Malcolm, Alan, Robin and Dave over various pick up points we headed back over to Lochgoilhead. Despite the good forecast the weather gradually deteriorated to cold west coast drizzle. Undeterred we got walking.

The last time I visited the Anvil I was close to sending Bloodfire, but got denied at the last crux. This time I was keen to try the project right of Spitfire and Bodyblow. Firstly I spent a few hours taking some snaps with my new camera, trying hard to balance the concept of shutter speed. Dave and Malcolm were trying the direct start to Body Blow, a potential F9a.

Dave linking Bloodfire into Body Blow.

Dave on the V11 crux of Body Blow.

Alan was trying lots of different things. Robin succeeded on Bloodfire, cruising to the LO, then made made some good progress on the Smiddy. Not bad considering the drizzly weather. After all this I’d was pretty cold and I remembered why odd numbers at the Anvil were bad. The odd one out for the day I couldn’t really warm up or try the routes I wanted. The project right of Spitfire had definitely be superseded by Malcolm’s Blackout F8b. With Dave and Malcolm chomping at the bit on the project I couldn’t really get dibs on Body Blow for a long session. Also it didn’t help that a hold on the crux had snapped off, it was greasy and I was still getting over an injury. With motivation panned for the day I decided to rest thinking I might get something done on Sunday.

Malcolm on Body Blow and Robin on the Smiddy.

Waking to the inevitable Sunday morning alarm my psyche was still gone. Text’s from Richie and Mike confirmed another day solo. Still feeling burned from bad forecasts and long drives I took myself back to bed until lunchtime. I kept myself occupied with some finger boarding (nearly managing a one hander), DIY, moving and the F7b+ traverse at Aggazziss I’d still not done. Other than getting some good snaps, bit of a wasted weekend, especially when the weather improved on Sunday. Bit depressing not getting anything done when another five days in hell are on the way.

Saturday 30 - Sunday 31 October. This weekend I headed back to the Camel to try a project I had equipped. I had been told by Neil Shepherd a few years ago that there was potential for a couple of hard lines on the right of the Camel up a steep sweeping bulge. Others had put me off checking it out for myself with tales of choosy conglomerate. In late July I finally visited the crag for myself and was pleasantly surprised, the rock looked interesting and was fairly solid conglomerate. Abseiling down the bulge the lines looked impressive and hard but would definitely go. A couple of weeks ago I took a day off work to equip and clean the line but ran out of time before I could try any of the moves.

On Saturday I headed up early to try the route and camped out ready to meet up with Lindsey the next day for a belay. After some more cleaning I finally got to try the moves on a jummar. The bottom section of the bulge had a few stiff moves. I managed to work out a sequence moving right to a handrail using small slopey sidepulls and toe hooks. The top section had slightly easier longer moves on cobblestones panning back to easier vertical climbing. Based the moves and some short links I thought the line might be F7c+.

Trying the new project.

On Sunday I met up with Lindsey. After some problems finding a belay stance on the steep gully I got cracking. I had a lot of trouble trying to link the bottom section and could only manage three links. Regardless I went for a redpoint only to rip off one of the pebbles on the crux quite spectacularly. A found I could do the move without it and continued. As I tired the top section started to feel hard and I could only manage short links with my fitness was waning with so little training. After reassessment I felt the line to be F8a/+.

With the winter chills on the way I’m going to have to get fit quick to complete the line. My finger has been getting stronger every week and I’ve managed to finger board ok, but have been shutdown on my crimpy board problems. Hopefully it will steadily improve so I can get stuck into some PE training again.

I’ve been lost for something to do this week nursing an injury and being unable to train. Organising the house I found an old copy of On the Edge from 1996 that listed all the hardest UK sport routes of F8a and above. Since I’ve been unable to find an up to date online version I decided to start my own list of the UK’s hardest sport routes on wikipedia. Based on my own knowledge and with some help from scottishclimbs and ukclimbing users we’re now a step closer to an authoritative listing. Some people did mention that it would be exhaustive to list all the routes above F8a, so we’ve decided on a cut off point of F8b+ (since F8a isn’t that hard any more). There’s still some subjective rationalisation needed in sorting routes within the grade by their difficulty. Hopefully people will keep updating it over the years. It’s fantastic to see how much progress has occurred in the past decade. Even better to see the OTE project list completed: Transform, Northern Lights and Ring of Steall.

Saturday 17th – Sunday 18th September. After getting past the crux on Full Tilt last weekend only to pump off I really tried to clock up the hours on the board this week. I was rewarded by completing my long standing F8b PE problem this time pulling through on the final 6b crux 33 moves in. To address those fitness problems from last weekend I did more running and lots of laps on the board to really feel the burn. Confident I finally had what it took to finish the job I headed back to Kilnsey along with Alan Cassidy and Malcolm Smith.

On Saturday I made a 6 am start in order to catch the bus to Glasgow to meet with the guys. Maybe it was the tiredness but it felt strange to be at the crag with Alan and Malcolm, like being at a foreign crag. The normally imposing north buttress was but a Olympic standard play park to these guys. First off Alan got a rope up True North F8c, a route he’d come very close to completing in June, only to be denied by a foot slip 3 moves from easier ground. It was impressive to watch Alan working the moves and I had to keep reminding myself again and again that the climbing wasn’t as easy as he made it look. I was silently taking notes on the moves. The knee bar in the sideways position looked good and less strenuous than my higher variation. After the nesting birds had finished with it the pocket at the top looked good, breaking up more of the hard climbing. Alan’s redpoints began but after a long break from the route he was frustrated to have lost his previous level of fluidity. After a few redpoints he’d had enough.

Alan Cassidy on True North F8c.

I got back on Full Tilt and worked though the moves to warm up. I tried out Alan’s sideways knee bar but it felt too strenuous. Sticking with my own method I got redpointing. Second RP I managed to pull through to the jug again and into the knee bar properly. As my legs burnt out I pulled out with fresh arms into the final crux just failing to stick the final hold. Next RP I changed clipping position to save a few moves but couldn’t get the kneebar in place properly and vibrated off under the tension. On the Final RP I pulled out again but was too knackered. Finally, I did manage to find a better position for the final move using a lower foothold such that my feet weren’t round my neck, a position I wish I’d known about earlier on in the day.

In between Alan and I’s tries Malcolm succeeded on Northern Exposure F8b+ second go that day, finally managing to move from the minging crimp at the top. Next he dispatched Urgent Action F8a+, second go and nearly did the Thumb F8a, after playing on these routes previously over the years. Not a bad recovery from the man flu.

Malcolm clipping on Northern Exposure F8b+ just before the V10 crux.

On Sunday redpoint service resumed. I waited my turn as Alan and Malcolm made easy ticks of Bullet, Cold Steal and Stolen between them. I got back on Full Tilt. After straining my RH ring A2 pulley last weekend on the crux pocket my finger ached. Redpointing was becoming a real minefield balancing desire to finish the route with the increased amount of injury time off. On two out of my three redpoints I managed to touch the last hold again but just wasn’t recovered enough from the knee bar, a rest that was far from relaxing for me. As the Autumn rains began I dogged up the remained or True North to strip it - knackered and without the two links I had hoped for this summer. Time was up and the game was over.

I’ve waited until writing up my thoughts on Full Tilt. I had hoped to have made light work of my many projects this summer but have failed on all of them: Burley, Ceasefire, Bloodfire, Snipe Shadow and Full Tilt. I’d hoped to have ticked this lot after completing Fire Power back in May and from pushing my training intensity and frequency. Even my final strategy of picking a project and sticking with it to the bitter end has failed due to injury, seepage and loss of interest in the crag. In all reasons to feel pretty down! I have to keep reminding myself that success is infrequent, short lived and sometimes unfulfilling . Each day trying a hard route I take away much more by competing, working out the moves, doing the training and always making progress. Not so much a means to an end as to the start of the next project. Injury permitting the start of the next project is but a few weeks away.