The First!



View from the Pad today

Got back to Bowden today for my traditional new years day climb. The sun was out but it was a little too cold in the wind. I motored on however with around 2 dozen others. My plan was to hit V-Crimps and Sprung both Font 7c. After a bad warm up I was getting shut down on V-Crimps so switched focus to Sprung. All but the crux moves came together on this but it took over an hour of tries and several walks until I hit the crux. It seemed to confuse the brain putting my feet the wrong way around on a crimp move but it finally worked just as the sun went down. Pressure now on it looked unlikely I’d finish it. In the dusk the wind suddenly dropped and conditions felt perfect. I rearranged my layers again and started trying it from the bottom. The first try I got high but wasted time swinging my feet. Lesson learned – to chuck them on and trust them. Next go I dropped the crux. Time for another walk. I got back in the ‘this with take ages, stop thinking that and do it now’ mindset from Wales. What do you know – drifted right up the thing aggressively and hit everything perfect! A good day. I milled about on V-Crimps to finish. Joe Newman had some great beta for me using a RF heel toe all the way to match the crimps. Good if only I was tall enough. I couldn’t quite get it to work but the next section was fine walking the feet out right if the crimps were matched. Needs another visit I think. Here’s a video from Dave Carnegie showing a decent sequence on V-Crimps and Sprung. My low LF RF toe hook felt pretty hard.


Winter at Bowden from Dave Carnegie on Vimeo.

Really surprised recently as I’ve ignored Northumberland for nearly a decade! Now suddenly there seems to be tones to try, a short ticklist for the future new years…

Born Lippy
The Crack SS
Working Class
Vienna SS
Barbarian SS
Underdog Trav
Pockets Trav
Black Triage
Cubbys Jocks link
Cubbys Yorkshireman link

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