Varian Levels of Power



The Deep Breath Egyptian Move. Photo: Stone Country

I was quite shocked when Dave M suggested my Glen Nevis Nemesis Deep Breath is down to 7c/+! Especially since I’ve thought for years it was more like 8a+. Then I found the video below of Beastmaker Dan Varian pissing it! On my best effort on the crux I can barely pull in to that bastard off balance position off a poor crimp and shit feet. OK I’ve not tried it that much (4-5 sessions) and not done many 8a’s or even done an 8a+, but I have tried lots of them with more positive feedback than DB. Stuff like Fata Morgana and Verdict in Font, or Manchester Dogs and Diesel Power seem a grade easier for sure. It does make it hard to get motivated to go back for £80 fuel money to try a problem I probably can’t do. Far easier to head south for some Cave ego massage on the Font 8a+ circuit down that way. I know that grades come down to a load of factors in the end. I’m guessing there stacked against me for that 7c+ tick in this case.


Behind The Iron-Bru Curtain from beastmaker.co.uk on Vimeo.

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