I Need the Serum for Shorties

Been trying the start of Serum for a few sessions over the last three years without getting anywhere. Watching the Gutbuster video on vimeo the other night really shocked me as Malc breezes the Font 8a+ start where I can’t even pull on. The holds are good – but my arms are short like a T-Rex :( Weighting the holds spanned makes my fingers feel like they will pull out of my hands! While I could do one armers off the holds, probably! Physical forces beyond 120 deg are never friendly I’ve been spending hours working out another sequence off small finger slopers rather than jugs – fuck this is Sabotage all over again. Where is Will when I need him!

I did some calculations using force equation on page 6 here. Assuming a standard climber weighs 80kg and standard arms are long enough to create a 140deg span angle (between holds in question) vs. shorties with a 170 deg span angle, so F=W*(cos @/sin 2@) gets us 116 vs. 458!!! newtons(?). So with a short span in a crucifix move you are in FACT inserting nearly five times the pressure of a standard span! Please prove me wrong with the maths… ?

 


Gutbuster wth Malcolm Smith from peter murray on Vimeo.

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