Got over to Spain for first trip in 3-4 years to climb three 8cs’s at least. I pissed them all then OS’d the 9b and warmed down on everyone’s projects solo, barefoot, naked and drunk………
Well Spain was yet another slap in the face to how deluded my climbing is in my world of dreams. I could barely bolt to bolt the 8c’s I wanted in Santa Linya, and didn’t even get to the top of others. It’s still not soaking in that I really need to train and rest properly. In the end I worked out Fabelita but couldn’t do the mono move. It can get to fuck! Rollito could also nearly get to fuck until I finally managed to do the 5 8″ span/jump on the last day. Obrint Pas and the Digital thing to left seemed pretty good but I didn’t do any moves. The 8b+ thing right of Pegue Nocturno was a jug haul to the 3 move boulder problem off two small crimps and a mono. Worth working out for the extension at 8b+/c!
New sectors we found at Glen Ogle.
So what I did do was a few routes, 3 8a’s, 2 7c’s, lots 7a-bs. So money well spent. And that what climbing comes down to in the UK, spending lots and lots of money. Projects can be expensive. If your not climbing your projects you better have a spare few K’s a year for the petrol and not feel sore about it. Time to embrace the teenage self hate again…
Yan showing how it should be done on Rollito Sharma F8b+