Beta I’ve worked out for some routes I’m trying.

Happiness in Slavery F8b+: Dumbuck, tried Sept 09
Summary: Short route/boulder problem (11 moves) up steep roof.

Start small undercut flake. LH large sharp UC, RH small UC on block. RH side slope on top od block. RF slopey foothold, LF toehook in undercut. Slap RH poor slope pinch (6b/c), get it on top right and chin it in! Chin LH slope and walk LF to hidden flatty under arete, move RF to UC toe hook (hard). Slap LH to large undercut, RF down smear. Slap RH to edge pinch (6c). Walk feet around to arete dish, RF back to UC hook, LH to undercut. Right toe to spike on R, knee drop, slap RH to big pinch. LF up to top of arete RF toe hook and clip! LH high on undercut, RF lower rail on ramp, LF pressed out left. Slap RH sidepull pinch, adjust it. Bring feet back up. RF to good toe on R, twist and slap LH to bad pinch (let left swing off if needed – keep RF on!). Walk LF up, RF heel hook on big spike, LF toe hook down on earlier UC. Slap RH to jug and try not to swing, clip! LF intermediate, feet up and throw LH for lip slopey crimp. Walk feet up L, hook RF 90 Deg toe hook on lip and clip belay!

Dr Crimp F8b+: Kilnsey, tried Sept 09
Summary: Long LH crimp move, needs cold conditions. Seeping pocket is a pain.

Easy first half into groove. Possible to down climb from below the crux and leave the rope up for the day. Font 7c+ crux on bulge. Cross out of groove LH sidepull and get pocket with RH, good LF down on left. Rock over for LH edge. RF on one of two edges at top of corner, drop knee slightly go for RH poor slopey pinch (6a/b). Match feet and walk RF up to high pocket. Toe hook for LF. Slap RH to small edge (6b/c) and build up dropping toe hook, flick RH slopey pinch (7a+). LF in pocket and bad pinch for LH. Walk feet around and up to small LH ear clip.
Next section not too bad (vertical) but tricky. LH split finger and thumb crimp, RH 2F slope sidepull LH press ear, feet on jugs on right and press up for jug (LF on arete bit). Undercut sidepulls and crimps for right hand to finish.

Northern Exposure F8b+ Kilnsey, tried Sept 09
Summary: Mini route F8a to Font 7c+ boulder problem, 17 moves total.

Start LH 2 finger edge, RH high undercut, reach through for big flaties R-LH. LH big pinch bring feet up over lip R-LF, RH pocket. Turn RH P to undercut, build feet up LH to edge clip and chalk. RH poor slope feet on big flatties, RF toe hook on spike and cross RH to better slope, R-LF in pockets and RH to small edge, LH pinch, RH undercut. RF on glued smear flag LF, LH into small UC and struggle to stand up. From undercuts RH small pinch, LF rockover to LH tiny edge. RF to high groove, LF small groove, slap RH rough edge (hard!), LF small edge rockover to jug.

Transform F8c Malham,tried Sept 09
Summary: F7a into 5 move Font 8a through steep bulge.

Climb Rose Coronary and clip two bolts into roof, downclimb. Possible to do 2nd roof clip by using an Egyptian off tufa. From tufa move out to small undercut RH and a bigger one for LH. Get left tufa mid way up with RH between the sharp bits. LF small notch drop knee, RF small dish on R. Big reach for LH wide pinch. RF small dish above old bolt, LF walk through to good roof foothold out L. RF heel hook on lump. Slap RH sidepull (or small dish?) (7a+). Slap LH undercut. Lift RF to tufa and slap RH turn SP to UC. Pull! and slap for RH edge, jug on left. Top section???

Project X F8b+ In Progress
Summary: Font 8a climbing perhaps, luckily a good hold 3m from top.

From ledge small undercut LH, big reach to get RH on poor sloper, LH to higher good undercut below, walk feet up, LF good lump, RF toe hook in middle of small bay. LH up to good-ish undercut sidepull, reel-in, then walk feet up on slopey feet, LF small lump out left, slap RH undercut pinch (HARD), match LF under, RF small smear, slap LH to match undercut, lift LF high to sloper, clip.

RH out right to loose slopey flake, LF already on slopey rail (leave room for RF on hand slope) RF toe hook. LH middle undercut (get thumb on), match feet then slap for sideways pinch above undercut system. LF in slopey toe slot, toe hook RF then LH undercut pinch. RF out right on loose flake, knee drop. RH slap slopey crimp out right. Walk feet up on slopey rail LF out on Gentle Mass handhold, RF toe hook the spike!
LH to flat undercut pinch, stand up and slap for good crimp on 7c then up that to finish – 8b+?

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