Wales 2012 – Part 1

Posted by on March 29, 2012 at 3:19 pm

Back in Wales a little later than planned due to work and injuries. Hitting the ground running wasn’t going to happen. As confirmed on the first day the cave delt me a welcome back slap in the face. Especially hard as there were 30 people in there and a few beasts ticking my projects easily […]

Bear Hugs All Round

Posted by on February 18, 2012 at 1:39 am

Got down to Bowden for a couple of days, my usual late start got me down for 3pm! Just as well as it was too windy! Must remember to bring tent pegs. Ended up slaving it out on The Crack/Craic something that I’d never really tried before. After listening to Ben Moon do it in […]

Varian Levels of Power

Posted by on January 18, 2012 at 10:22 pm

The Deep Breath Egyptian Move. Photo: Stone Country I was quite shocked when Dave M suggested my Glen Nevis Nemesis Deep Breath is down to 7c/+! Especially since I’ve thought for years it was more like 8a+. Then I found the video below of Beastmaker Dan Varian pissing it! On my best effort on the […]

Yorkshire Grit

Posted by on January 7, 2012 at 3:34 pm

Got down to Yorkshire with Stu eventually once we spotted a clear spell in the weather after New Year. The drive down the A/M1 was however a very long car wash, difficult motivationally that it would improve but it did. It was too windy for Almscliff so we found some shelter round at Caley. Here […]

The First!

Posted by on January 1, 2012 at 9:38 pm

View from the Pad today Got back to Bowden today for my traditional new years day climb. The sun was out but it was a little too cold in the wind. I motored on however with around 2 dozen others. My plan was to hit V-Crimps and Sprung both Font 7c. After a bad warm […]

Thirty Three

Posted by on December 18, 2011 at 9:32 pm

I struggled to wind down work into December so it looked like I’d missed my window for good conditions for North Wales bouldering. With my birthday approaching I decided a push was as good as a shove so got the van packed up and headed south through the snow. Keith was nice enough on the […]

Beetle Back

Posted by on August 20, 2011 at 11:11 am

I had a chance to get up to High Crag in Glen Nevis to do some bouldering again for a few hours. Its been over ten years since I had a go at the classic traverse Beetle Back Font 7c. It was late by the time I thrashed my way up after missing the path, […]

Who Woke the Groundhog

Posted by on February 27, 2011 at 10:47 pm

  Made my third trip to Dumbie this year after one of the worst winters in years. Saying that I didn’t seemed to have much luck with the forecast. For example I tried on Wednesday but the cloudy forecast turned out to be wind blow drizzle and a temp inversion that had everything soaked. I […]

Out of Balance

Posted by on December 12, 2010 at 8:38 pm

Dave MacLeod in his full Dumbarton stride. Finally got out to Dumbie today bouldering. The recent run of freezing weather has shut me down. Even then geting home the M8 was closed leaving a fun 2 hour drive to get home. I’ve been feeling strong on the board but today I got the tough reminder […]


Posted by on May 31, 2010 at 12:11 am

Sabotage my old way back in March. Today I finally topped out on Sabotage. I’ve written lots about this problem over the last five years. It stands as my most tried and failed on boulder problem or route to date. The past two springs have been a rocky road of near success then injury. But […]

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