I Need the Serum for Shorties

Posted by on January 26, 2012 at 4:36 pm

Been trying the start of Serum for a few sessions over the last three years without getting anywhere. Watching the Gutbuster video on vimeo the other night really shocked me as Malc breezes the Font 8a+ start where I can’t even pull on. The holds are good – but my arms are short like a […]

Varian Levels of Power

Posted by on January 18, 2012 at 10:22 pm

The Deep Breath Egyptian Move. Photo: Stone Country I was quite shocked when Dave M suggested my Glen Nevis Nemesis Deep Breath is down to 7c/+! Especially since I’ve thought for years it was more like 8a+. Then I found the video below of Beastmaker Dan Varian pissing it! On my best effort on the […]

The First!

Posted by on January 1, 2012 at 9:38 pm

View from the Pad today Got back to Bowden today for my traditional new years day climb. The sun was out but it was a little too cold in the wind. I motored on however with around 2 dozen others. My plan was to hit V-Crimps and Sprung both Font 7c. After a bad warm […]


Posted by on July 7, 2011 at 10:26 pm

It was great news to read that Chris Savage climbed Progress F8c+ at Kilnsey the other week. There’s a good wee video too. Chris has been on a 3 month career break (aka praternity leave with understanding partner) and had made quite an impact on Yorksire Limestone. In the last three years dozens of climbers […]

Living with Superstition

Posted by on May 8, 2011 at 12:10 pm

After spending a lot of time projecting down in Yorkshire I decided I better enjoy some of the good weather back in Scotland before it was too late. I’ve had a few visits to Steall Hut crag with Michael. Over the years I’ve been working Leopold and Arcadia but never really returned to finish either […]

Those of Nervous Disposition

Posted by on March 22, 2011 at 12:08 pm

I’m sitting here numb from ear to ear after another trip to the dentist. Today I wasn’t feeling so bold and sat fretting in the waiting room afraid of the dreaded injection and drill. Nerves have been troubling me of late. In the past I think my worst fear was public speaking at school. A […]

Back in the Habit

Posted by on March 17, 2011 at 1:14 pm

I’ve slowly been getting back into training more seriously. Its been a tough winter motivationally with work, injury and poor weather. I’ve been getting training more frequently helped by the prospect of getting on Yorkshire projects again and my steadily improving finger injury. In fact I’ve been experimenting training every day for a couple of […]

Earth Shakes Under Power Cave

Posted by on January 23, 2011 at 4:15 pm

  Was a bit worried to read via the BBC about an earth quake near the Arisaig cave of power! Lets hope no damage has been done and the 2012 dooms day prophecies are false! Best quit your jobs and climb your projects now!!!

Why is it?

Posted by on January 17, 2011 at 12:19 pm

  Why is it I’ve trained for four months then got an injured finger – and now the weather is brilliant….. I’ve had three weeks off and need to test my LH ring finger A2 again. I’ve been regularly icing it and chomping down the Glucosamine which doesn’t feel like it has helped. Each morning […]

Tortured by the Life/Climb Balance

Posted by on December 21, 2010 at 1:25 pm

I’m finding it very hard to feel motivated recently. Eighteen months ago I gave up my full time job with the plan of having more time to climb while working on self employment options. Things haven’t worked out as planned. As I realised how hard it was I spent less time climbing to save time […]

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