Training

Elbow Tendinosis

Posted by on July 14, 2011 at 10:21 pm

My elbow hasn’t really improved over the last six weeks, although I have been able to climb on it moderately on routes to F8a+ and do a little training every week or so. I did have grand plans for the summer but yet again these are on the backburner – maybe untill next year! The […]

Unlocking Progress

Posted by on June 15, 2011 at 8:34 pm

Got back to Kilnsey for a project week. Since it was so cold I thought I’d get back on Dr Crimp (year three). I was surprised by how polished its getting – Yorkshires most popular 8b+? After a few hours I still couldn’t do the jump move. Although I ruled out my old beta with […]

Oh me elbows…

Posted by on April 26, 2011 at 4:03 pm

Just found the article on UKC on elbow tendonitious rehab. This has been bothering me slightly off late so I’ll be shopping for a broom handle for sure.

Training 24th Nov 2010

Posted by on November 25, 2010 at 12:16 am

Trying to split sessions better as not to get fed up. Tonight was Power and PE. Started by feeling strong but spent 45 min or more (!) falling off the crux of the easy 8a. Before things got to OCD I gave up! Tried the Blue Meanie and The Hulk 8a+ proj for sure, could […]

Training – 21 Nov 2010

Posted by on November 22, 2010 at 3:00 pm

Weather was again to pish to go out. Took three days rest. Shoulders still a bit sore and tendon connecting to elbow which is worrying. Late session but battled on. Did the 8a/+ after many goes. Maybe like 5 hrs over 3 days in end. Did the 8b+ again, about same as last time. Say […]

Training – 17th Nov 2010

Posted by on November 18, 2010 at 12:29 am

Had a couple of sessions outside on project. One day was good, the other was very bad! Never really warmed up and the flicky moves caused my shoulder impingment to flare up again. Gave up! On Mon had a wee session at ratho, nothing too hard – just a moderate potter. Today got back to […]

Training 8th Nov 2010

Posted by on November 8, 2010 at 11:24 pm

Bit of training. Trying new 8a. PE managed 8b+ once in three goes. FB to finish running much higher. Come on project!

Training 7th Nov 2010

Posted by on November 7, 2010 at 7:33 pm

Tried to get out yesterday but project was goping. Tried 8a on board instead and finally did it. Was too cold to campus :(

Training 3rd Nov 2010

Posted by on November 4, 2010 at 9:16 pm

Had a couple of days rest hoping for more power. Felt a bit better. Near managed the hard 8a after an hour of trying. Held the crux footless and couldn’t believe it only to fall off the last (easier move). Darn! PE was better too, starting to feel skippy on this. Nearly nailed it but […]

Training 31st Oct 2010

Posted by on October 31, 2010 at 11:07 pm

Back in tonight trying the 8a. Surprising myself by doing it 2nd try after spending nearly an hour trying the individual moves. Its suprising how much harder you try on the burn. Had a few goes at the harder 8a but that didn’t go down after another 40min trying. PE was feeling pretty good but […]

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